You just never know when something unexpected will happen do you?

Everything will be going just fine when a situations that might require emergency attention occurs. This will happen at the most inconvenient time. You know, like 10 minutes before your vet closes and you live 30 minutes away. Or they are doing road work between you and your vet, and it is right in the middle of the busiest time for traffic to be on the road... or it's Friday night and your vet is closed till Monday. Or you are on a long over due vacation and out of town and have no idea where the closest vet might be...  Your car is in the shop and your neighbor won't be home till after the vet closes etc..

 Well panic will not help you or your Boston.  Being a little prepared might help or if nothing else make it easier on your Dog and your Vet when you do get him there... (Anyone know of a pet ambulance? Now there is something we could all use at times!)

 Knowing some basics might help save your Dog or at least give you something positive to be doing while help arrives or you can get to the emergency vet..  Below are somethings you should be aware of that might even save a dogs life or minimize any damage.

Emergency first aid serves only to keep the dog alive and relieve pain for the amount of time it takes to get to a veterinarian. When providing first aid, the most serious threats to life are treated first. ABCs

(AIRWAY, BREATHING CIRCULATION )

 A = Airway

The first step in dog CPR is to obtain an open airway. Do not continue to B-Breathing and C-Circulation until you have an open airway.
Please be careful when doing this as, even if she is unresponsive, your dog may bite by instinct. If her tongue has rolled into the back of her mouth, pull it straight out of her mouth to open the airway. Be sure that her neck is straight by bringing the head in line with the neck. If she's suffering from head or neck trauma, do not over-straighten the neck.

Perform two (2) rescue breaths. Do this by holding her mouth closed and then giving mouth-to-nose ventilation's. If the breaths go in easily, continue on to B-Breathing.

 the breaths do not go in, or if you detect some resistance, reposition her neck and try the two breaths again.

If these breaths do not go in, inspect the airway by looking into your dog's mouth. Look down her throat for a foreign object blocking the airway. If you see one, reach in and remove it.  To prevent being bitten, try to use a tool to remove the object – pliers or perhaps tweezers. If you can't get them into her, you'll have to use the Heimlich maneuver.¹

B = Breathing

C = Circulation followed by chest compressions if necessary

 ¹http://www.dog-first-aid-101.com/dog-cpr.html

How to Measure pulse/heart rate:  The pulse rate is determined by counting the number of beats per minute. Most adult dogs at rest maintain a rate of 60 to 160 beats per minute. In large dogs the rate is somewhat slower and in toy dogs it’s somewhat faster. In young puppies the heart rate is about 220 beats per minute.

Measure respiratory rate/note character:  The normal respiratory rate for dogs is 16 to 20 breaths per minute. You put your hand on their belly and count how many times your dog inhales.  

Take your dog's temperature your dog's normal rectal temperature is 100.5 to 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit. Higher temperatures may necessitate a trip to your veterinarian, depending on other symptoms. Feeling the ears, nose or head is not considered a reliable method; you have to determine your dog's internal temperature to find out for certain. This is done using an oral or rectal thermometer, either digital or mercury. Your dog's normal rectal temperature is 100.5 to 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit. Higher temperatures may necessitate a trip to your veterinarian, depending on other symptoms. Feeling the ears, nose or head is not considered a reliable method; you have to determine your dog's internal temperature to find out for certain. This is done using an oral or rectal thermometer, either digital or mercury.

     

This is where the main Arteries are on a dog. If the blood coming from the cut is spurting or bright red, this is a more serious and life threatening wound that is causing arterial bleeding. In this case, apply immediate pressure to the wound (do not clean the wound just apply pressure) and keep applying pressure. If blood continues to soak through the cloth you are using, add another cloth on top of the blood-soaked cloth and keep applying pressure. Never remove a cloth from this type of wound once you have placed it on the cut and applied pressure. Take the dog to the nearest emergency clinic for treatment. Pressure should continue to be applied to the wound during the transport.²

Severe bleeding will require immediate attention, but if the bleeding is not severe you have time to clean and stabilize the wound before taking the dog to a veterinarian for treatment.

To determine the severity of any bleeding, take a look at the color and action of the blood. Blood that is dark in color and seems to have a slow oozing type exit from the wound is usually venous blood and is generally not life threatening. If possible, clean the wound with Saline, then apply pressure to the wound using medical bandages, cloth, towels, or whatever is on hand. Keep applying pressure to the wound, and the blood flow should slow to a stop within the next 20 minutes.²

  ²http://www.petwave.com/Emergency/Dog-First-Aid/Dog-Has-Major-Cut.aspx   

 Eye injury Corneal ulcers are wounds to the cornea usually caused by an abrasion, scratch, puncture or other trauma to the eye.

 Certain pets – those with flat faces (brachycephalic breeds) – are more prone to corneal ulcers. These breeds include the Boxer, Boston terrier, Bulldog, Pekingese, Pug, Shih tzu, and any breed of dog or cat with a short, flat muzzle and prominent eyes.Unless your pet's corneal ulcer is mild (involving only the outer layer) and not caused by an underlying condition – or unless your veterinarian is very skilled in treating eye conditions – I recommend you ask for a referral to a veterinary ophthalmologist³ or other eye specialist.³

 Corneal injuries are painful no matter whether it be a superficial abrasion or a deep injury such as a cat scratch. The first sign you are likely to see is the eye being kept tightly shut. Occasionally there is tearing – profuse watering of the eye and sometimes if the corneal injury is infected the discharge may be coloured or pus like.

  ³http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2012/02/22/pets-red-eye-may-be-corneal-ulcer.aspx

Heat stroke

 

 Muzzle your dog. Yes there are now muzzles for short nosed dogs. PREVENT HUMANS TRYING TO HELP FROM GETTING BIT

 How to make a muzzle emergency for regular dog face http://www.doggieandme.com/how-to-create-a-muzzle.html  Practice makes Perfect! Practicing how to muzzle on your pet desensitizes your pet to this procedure. This means when a trauma occurs you will not be adding extra stress by placing a muzzle on them, they will already be use to it! And the more often you try it on your pet the better you get at it too!

 
Normal vital signs for dogs - Know what is normal for YOUR dog!
Temperature 101.5F (+/- 10F)
Pulse/heart rate 60 to 160 beats per minute
Respiratory rate 10 to 30 breaths per minute
These signs are for a normal, mature dog at rest. An excited, or one that has been running, will have elevated heart and respiratory rates.
Elevated vital signs for a dog at rest may be a sign of infection, disease, overheating or various other health problems.
Low vital signs may indicate a dog in shock.

 

When should you go to your vet?
Always call your vet should you think or know a car has hit your pet. Even if you do not think the wheels touched him, get him in! If your vet is not open, find the closest emergency vet clinic.
Always call your vet should you suspect your dog has eaten a toxin. Things like antifreeze can kill in tiny amounts. Onions, chocolate, alcohol and many plants are toxic in varying amounts. Tylenol (acetaminophen) and Ibuprofen can be deadly, as can other human medicines.
Always call your vet if you suspect your dog has had a seizure.
Always call your vet should you suspect your dog has swallowed a foreign body.
Always call the vet if you pet has been in a fight - especially if you suspect a wild animal or you do not know what animal your pet tangled with. Even if you see no bite, call. Rabies (in some countries) is always a concern as is infection from bites
Sudden shifts in temperament – like going from normally very sweet to aggressive – can be a sign of problems, even medical.
Should you find any lumps or bumps when examining your dog (you should examine your dog weekly when your groom) call the vet.
If your dog has been off food, water or acting lethargic for twenty-four hours or more, call the vet. A young puppy or senior dog should be called in sooner.
Though one missed meal may not be an emergency – look for other signs of illness. Should your dog be vomiting or have abdominal tenderness or swelling, call the vet.
Should you notice lameness and limping -whether or not there was an injury. If you notice lameness when getting up, stiffness in moving, etc., call.
Ask your vet about the signs of bloat. Large and giant breeds are more prone, but it can happen to any dog. Indicators of bloat are abdominal swelling and discomfort. If allowed to go on even for a few hours can be deadly.
Diarrhea for more than twenty-four hours or diarrhea with blood should be an alert to call the vet.
Rashes, falling out fur, excessive shedding or chewing at spots on the body should be brought to your vet's attention.
Should the eyes look hazy or your dog seem to have trouble seeing or there is an abnormal discharge from the eye, call the vet.
Pale gums can be signs of a serious problem.
Bad odors, discharge and crud in the ear could signal a problem.
 
Transporting your dog in an emergency
1. It is usually preferable to take your dog to the vet's office rather than your veterinarian coming out. The office has specialized equipment and trained assistants. Notify the veterinary practice that you are on your way so they can prepare for your arrival.
2. Gently slide your dog onto a blanket or coat on the ground. Drag with the body first so any broken legs or other injuries will be pulled onto the blanket rather than pushed which may cause further injury. Position the dog's back (not the legs) against the seat. This provides more stability and doesn't put the legs at risk for added pressure or movement into the seat.
Young or small dogs can be carried in a box, basket or a person's arms who is not driving.
3. Two people can pick up the corners of the blanket to form a soft stretcher to transfer the dog to the back seat of the car. The person walking backwards should go on through the car so the dog can be lowered gently onto the seat.
4. Someone should stay in the back with the dog on the way to the clinic. If the dog is trying to bite, a bandage can be temporarily tied around its muzzle. Do not leave the muzzle on for a prolonged period since this may hinder breathing.

 
POISONING
Keep your vets phone number and your local emergency vet (24/7) number where you can find it. Taped beside your phone, computer or on you phone. 
National Animal Poison Control Center (NAPCC) 1-900-680-0000  $45 per case, billed to your phone.
Watch for any changes in color (skin and in mouth) and respiration, excessive salivation or dryness, diarrhea, heaving, vomiting, extreme restlessness or lethargy. Do NOT try to induce vomiting or ingestion without first consulting a veterinarian or poison control center.
 
When calling, have the following information available:
Your name and phone number
Age of dog
Weight of dog
Physiologic condition (i.e. neutered, pregnant, lactating, health disorders, etc.)
Name of the product and manufacturer
Active ingredient and concentration listed on the label
Formulation of the product (i.e. solid, liquid, aerosol)
Amount of product the dog was exposed to
Time elapsed since exposure
Any symptoms observed (drooling, vomiting, difficulty breathing, etc.)
Time between exposure and onset of symptoms
For other useful poison information see:
http://www.avma.org/pubhlth/poisgde.html

 
Useful household items to have on hand:
Old towels, rags or diapers (to clean up if your dog voids his bladder or bowel during a seizure)
Heavy blanket (can be used to transport to a clinic a seizing dog that cannot stand or walk)
Baby gate (to block off hazards from a recovering, ataxic dog or to block other dogs from a seizing dog)
Extra mats or pillows (they may need to be changed if soiled during a seizure)
Electric fan (to help cool a seizing dog)
Rescue Remedy,Honey, molasses, or Breyer's natural vanilla ice cream (these foods help some dogs recover more quickly after a seizure)
 
Your vet should be you first ally when concerning the health of your dog. Try to use a vet willing to work with you and who seems generally concerned about your pets. Just like with human doctors, there are vets who are very dedicated to their profession and others who are not. Having a good relationship with your vet is a key element in the health and maintenance of your dog.