How to Choose Your Dog Walker
by Veronica Boutelle Professional dog walking has grown rapidly over the last ten years, and the collapse of the economy has sent a new flood of dog lovers into the field. Because walking is a young business, there is currently no regulating body and anybody who wants to go into the business can hang out a shingle.
But walking dogs, particularly in groups, takes more than the passion we all share for them. There is specialized knowledge and skill that walkers should possess to ensure the safety of the dogs in their charge, as well as themselves and the other dogs and humans who share the beaches, trails, and parks.
To make sure the dog walker you hire is qualified, do a careful interview that includes the following questions.
1. Are you trained in canine learning theory, body language, and pack management?
You want a dog walker who knows how to: a) use scientifically sound, humane training methods; b) read body language and take appropriate steps to prevent fights (and properly break them upwhen need be); c) judge which dogs to place together for maximum compatibility; and 4) handle issues like quarrels over toys, space, or play styles. In short, you want someone with professional knowledge and the skill set to keep the group together and under control while everyone has a great time. Of course, a love of dogs is imperative — but not enough on its own. (Full disclosure: dogTEC’s Dog Walking Academy trains and certifies dog walkers in all this and more. As it is currently the only educational program to do so, we obviously recommend hiring a dogTEC-certified dog walker.)
2. How many dogs do you walk at once?
Some cities, counties, and park districts now regulate the number of dogs a walker can take out together. But most do not. This means that some walkers are escorting six or eight dogs, while others are walking as many as 15 and even 20. Together. In public spaces. Whether on or off leash, each dog added to a group increases the potential for conflict, injury, lost dogs, and distraction – not to mention making individual attention pretty much impossible. Your dog deserves to be one of few rather than one of many. (dogTEC-certified walkers can walk no more than eight dogs to maintain their certification status.)
3. Do you walk alone?
A walker’s job is to keep your dog safe and show her a good time. This means keeping vigilant focus. Teaming up with a friend can be fun, but it inevitably reduces attention. If that friend is also a dog walker, going out together combines two sets of dogs, making the pack too large for maximum safety. For best results, a dog walker should hit the trail with dogs, not other people. For similar reasons, cell phones and other potentially distracting devices should be turned off during dog walks.
4. Who will actually walk my dog?
Most dog walking companies are very small — the sole proprietor is the sole walker. Some have multiple employees, however. Find out whether the person who comes to meet you and your dog will be your actual dog walker. If not, ask about that person’s qualifications, too, and how she will be introduced to your dog. You may request to meet the walker yourself, if you prefer.
5. What size dogs do you walk together?
If you have a small dog, insist that your dog walk only with other dogs her size. If you have a large pooch, do the same. It’s too easy for small dogs to be injured during the course of play with and among their larger peers. And the risk of predatory drift, in which one dog attacks and even kills another, is much higher than is generally realized. This tragedy can — and most commonly does — happen between dogs who know each other and generally get along well, even for years. It’s safest to stick to the 50% rule. For example, if your dog weighs 30 pounds, his playmates should weigh no more than 60 pounds.
6. How much time do you guarantee on the walk?
If your walker will be transporting your dog, make sure that the time quoted to you is time out of the vehicle, roaming and having fun. The car ride shouldn’t be included. And make sure your walker is giving Missy her full due. Too many walkers load the pack back into the van after only 15 to 20 minutes of play, when the brochure says play sessions are 60 minutes long.
7. What kind of training methods and equipment do you use?
The American Veterinary Medical Association, American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, and The SF/SPCA all recommend hiring only positive-reinforcement based dog trainers. Use the same principles when choosing a dog walker. Your walker should know how to keep a group of dogs under control and safe without the use of choke, prong, and shock collars; citronella or water spray; hitting, shoving, or yelling. Your dog is supposed to have a good time out there. You wouldn’t let a teacher spank your child. A professional walker shouldn’t need to resort to such measures, either.
8. Are you licensed, insured, and bonded?
Any walker using the word “professional” should carry dog-walking insurance and have a business license. All employees of a given company should be bonded.
9. Do you have a professional service contract and references?
You should be asked to sign a contract. Read it thoroughly, and feel comfortable asking for references. Then check them!
10. Are you certified to provide canine first aid, and what are your emergency protocols?
What will your walker do if your dog is injured? What will be done with your dog if another dog in the group is hurt and requires the walker’s full attention? What about if the vehicle breaks down, if a dog is lost, or if a natural disaster occurs? Does the person carry emergency information and know the fastest route to the emergency veterinary clinic? In short, is he or she prepared? If you don’t ask, you won’t know.
We are currently seeing an explosion of dog walkers and dog-walking companies. Most do an outstanding job caring for the dogs in their charge, providing them with the outdoor recreation and canine companionship they need to truly thrive. If you take the time to carefully choose the right walker for your dog, one that can answer the above questions fully and confidently, you can rest assured that your dog is having a fun and safe time when you need to be away all day. Your dog deserves that, and you do, too.
Veronica Boutelle, MA, CTC, is the founder of dogTEC and previously the Director of Behavior and Training for the San Francisco SPCA. She is the author of How to Run A Dog Business: Putting Your Career Where Your Heart Is, and is a sought-after lecturer in the professional dog world. She is one of several Dog Walking Academy instructors. For more information, visit www.dogtec.org.
Have you tried pet sitters international (PSI) ?
Www.petsit.com at the site you can put in your zip and hopefully there are
sitters in your area.
I am a professional pet sitter myself and I have also gotten clients
referred from my groomer and also from the local vets where I have cards.
Check w your vet and see if they know of someone.
PSI is a large popular organization w professional pet sitters so depending
on where u live you will find someone
if you also want to tell me your city (zip) I can ask on a couple of my pet
sitting lists if anyone knows of anyone in the area and if you tell me what
your special needs are maybe I can help find someone for you to interview .
I know how hard it is to go away,I had my Boston on 4
Different meds and I also medicate a lot of clients pets .
389 A dog is a lot of work. They need to be trained.part 2
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388 A dog is a lot of work. They need to be trained. part 1
Unpublished
If it's a first-time pet owner, make sure they know the basics of caring for this type of pet
They often make their placement decisions based on your prior dog-owning experience and it's all about the conversations that you have with them. They're not interested in what kind of furniture you have or what's in your cabinets
We do not have a fenced in yard, but that didn't seem to be a problem, as we intended to walk the dog daily.
He mentioned a home he visited that had prescription drug bottle lying all around...needless to say the home was not approved
Clutter? I'm not sure it will matter unless it is dangerous to your future dog. However, I would straighten up as much as I could...just in case... Will the dog be in an apartment.
I do home visits for a adoption group and I can tell you I would MUCH rather see a bit of clutter than a home where everything is perfect. People that need everything to be perfect do not need a dog. A dog is a lot of work. They need to be trained. Some of them will chew or display other destructive behavior.
I like to bring the dog to the house to let the adopter see how they feel when the dog is actually there. I have had people say the dog seems much bigger now that they are actually in their home and change their minds. Better before than after they have been there a month or more. I just check to see if there are any obvious safety issues and answer questions.
She told us she was more interested in how we acted with the dog she brought ,and also how dh and I interacted with each other--a red flag would be extreme impatience, disrespecting each other, tension between us. She told us this afterwards. We waited about 3 months (till after the holidays and moving into the house) to look at dogs looking for a home.
Thanks for thinking rescue!
I volunteer and do home visits for American Brittany Rescue. Although everyone conducts a home visit in their own way, I'm looking to see (i) if the applicant was truthful in their application (don't say you have a fence when you don't or that you live in a house when you actually live in an apartment...); (ii) have they researched the breed and do they understand what to expect (ie. how much exercise do they require - sporting dogs need a lot more than the average dog); and (iii) is everyone onboard about adopting a dog. I also like just talking with the adopter to offer tips and suggestions and answer any questions or concerns that they may have.
We certainly do not want to deny anyone from adopting a dog - we just want to find the best fit for both the adopter and the dog. I'm certainly not concerned about clutter or the size of your house/apartment, just that the person(s) will provide a loving home.
The hardest part of home visits is when you know that there is more than one applicant for a particular dog so, even though all applicants may be amazing, the fact is that only one person can adopt the dog. In these circumstances, we hope that the unsuccessful applicants (for that particular rescue dog) will consider another dog within our foster network as there are always dogs in need loving homes and we will do our best to help you find the one that fits your lifestyle the best.
When the Doberman rescue came to check us out (home visit), they just sat and chatted with us about our previous dogs for the most part. They did ask to see the yard and asked us where we would put a crate and a pet bed. That was about it.
wow what a process! i'm sorry your application got declined :(
i went through a period of going to different adoption sites, rescue group website and it was really disappointing to see all the rules that some of them put out. especially the rule about "you must have a fenced in yard" - while i understand it to a point i don't think that should be something you get declined for. my neighbor's fenced in yard didn't do them a bit of good when their dog kept jumping over it!!
i don't think our local shelter does any sort of home visit or application process. well they have an application process but it's not real in depth. my friend went to adopt a dog, she picked out this one that was HUGE! and she lived in this tiny apartment which was super cluttered. she was renting so all she needed was an approval from the landlord (which was her dad). and that was it. she paid the fee and the dog was her's!
Now, as someone who you used to work in animal rescue, I understand that it is frustrating, but the individuals who work with these dogs day in and day out just want to see them go to the best home possible. It's NEVER easy to turn someone down for a dog - especially if you can tell that that person would be a great owner, but unfortunately things happen. Please don't get too discouraged, take any constructive criticism they offered and keep looking. You WILL find the perfect dog for you!
i think one of the things that bothers me most is that the volunteer who did the home visit didn't even offer any suggestions or criticisms. she seemed like i would be approved for sure. she spoke about how their reunion is in march, how i need to choose a dog who will get along with my sister's, how i need to get a 42 in crate, etc.
the rescue is not obligated to explain their rejection, so i really don't know why i got rejected. i told the volunteer i'd be fencing in our yard, and she even loved the back of our house (it faces a huge open field). if they didn't like my referrals, i feel like they should have rejected me sooner.
i even told her i'd be more than happy to adopt an older dog (7 yrs +) and that i was open to mixed breeds because she believed my petite size would not work with a 105 lb GSD...
i'm pretty confused by it all...
I know you said that they don't have to explain their reasons for rejection, but maybe consider sending an email along the lines of: "I was wondering if you could offer suggestions for me - no matter how big or small, I won't take them personally, I just want to know what I can do to make my home right for a dog."
I can't see any rescue denying that information to a potential adopter - especially if it was presented in a nice manner.
I've worked with several rescue groups and it is sad how many adopted dogs come back because the people didn't look after the dog. Consequently, I understand why some organization have such strict rules. Sometimes, though, the screens can feel really high
^^ exactly. i mean i know they mean well but when places are so picky i think it causes a HUGE issue and only pushes people towards breeders because it's easier.
i remember seeing a adoption page once where it said that in order to be able to adopt their dogs someone had to be able to stay at home with them practically all day. so basically they would only adopt to someone who had a spouse that doesn't work, works at home, or if you didn't work or worked at home.
I'm so sorry to hear that, and how rude of them to not even respond to your email.
I hope you don't swear off rescues forever - have you checked for German Shepards through Petfinder? Or even Craigslist? I'm sure both resources will have a dog that would be perfect for you.
Keep in mind that reputable breeders (those that care about the quality of the breed and not just trying to make money) are often tough screeners too. At the end of the day, please don't buy from a store or puppy mill - these poor animals are treated poorly, receive very little vet care, and aren't well socialized.
All that said, we had trouble once adopting a small breed dog because we had two dogs that were around 50lbs. Some agencies felt that little dogs couldn't hang out with big dogs. Our little dogs love our mellowed out big dogs.
Don't be scared but don't put your godfather down as a reference again. I know that getting from St. Bernard rescue they were very concerned that we had a 6' fence. You aren't the only one traumatized, though.
I am pretty sour on rescue orgs right now. Corgi rescue was completely a bunch of jerks to us, because our other male at the time wasn't neutered. The reason he wasn't neutered is because he had chronic pneumonia and would die if we put him under. They literally came out and said we were horrible people for not neutering our dog.
Well, one day, Corgi rescue called us because there was a Cardigan in the (high-kill) city shelter. None of the people on the Corgi rescue list wanted him because he had a tail. So apparently we were good enough once no one else wanted him. The non-neutered dog got along just fine with the neutered one, and then the non-neutered one got well enough to neuter. So so much for that issue.
If I were rescuing again I'd just go to the shelter. When we went to meet the Corgi they basically let us adopt on the spot. We're experienced dog owners, so if you stress your experience (if you have any) plus use veterinarians and dog trainers as your references, you shouldn't have a problem.
^thanks. i've actually seen descriptions of some rescues that will not adopt out a pet to homes that have pets that aren't fixed. some of the restrictions are completely ridiculous i swear!
it's amazing how they can actually make you feel like you're a bad person just because they don't feel you're an ideal pet owner...
Stairs would only be an issue if this was an older dog with arthritis or issues with its hips.
But do you rent this place or is this in your parents' home? If it's your parents' home first off the adoption will require their approval. If you're renting then of course, the landlord's. Odd you call it "my house" and yet you "live in the basement". How is that your house?
Does this house have a fenced yard? Most shelters will not adopt out larger dogs to homes without yards as the worry is that you don't have anywhere to let the dog out to go potty which means you could be letting it out there not on a leash, the dog gets out of the yard and hit by a car or hurt by another dog or hurts another dog. So don't get your hopes up if you don't have a fenced yard.
Shelters also want to make sure you can afford to care for a dog including any emergency medical bills. If all you can afford is a room in the basement of someone else's house that isn't likely.
Source:
Shelter volunteer for over 20 years.
Asker's rating & comment
4 out of 5
Thank you! I'm installing an electric fence. And also, I am 18 but I am still in high school so I'm not moving out just yet. It's not that I can't afford it, I have a steady job & I can afford this. But my mother is a widow and she has asked me 2 stay until after summer. I'm well prepared I think.
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387 halo seems workable
On the halos, there are some dogs who don't tolerate the head type (just like a cone of shame, they can be a bit bothersome for some dogs). If so, but the halo seems workable, there is another type that attaches to a light body harness. Here is a link to a picture of the body type if you run into that. BTW, the link is a test HTML page of mine for crafting home pages for others. Ignore the contents, what you want is the banner picture at the top (scroll up if your browser doesn't show it). Contents right now are a test page for a yahoo group in OZ.
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