You just adopted a new dog. You researched the best foods. You bought nice bowls and a mat to sit them on. You bought a cool collar and lease. You bought brushes and a toothbrush and toothpaste. You bought a crate. You bought a dog bed (or two, or three). You've talked to your vet about EVERYTHING! You have heart worm preventative and flea preventative. You are prepared to give your dog the best life possible. But what about dealing with those little problems that can happen to even the most careful among us.

Do you have a first aid kit?

There are a number of lists out there for things that should be in a first aid kit. The Human Society's (http://m.humanesociety.org/animals/resources/tips/pet_first_aid_kit.html) basic first-aid supplies include:

•    Absorbent gauze pads
•    Adhesive tape
•    Antiseptic wipes, lotion, powder or spray
•    Blanket (a foil emergency blanket)
•    Cotton balls or swabs
•    Gauze rolls
•    Hydrogen peroxide (to induce vomiting—do this only when directed by a veterinarian or a poison-control expert)
•    Ice pack
•    Non-latex disposable gloves
•    Petroleum jelly (to lubricate the thermometer)
•    Rectal thermometer (your pet's temperature should not rise above 103°F or fall below 100°F)
•    Scissors (with blunt ends)
•    Sterile non-stick gauze pads for bandages
•    Sterile saline solution (sold at pharmacies)
•    Tweezers
•    A pillowcase (to confine your cat or small dog for treatment)
•    A pet carrier

The Pet Education site (http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=2+1677&aid=2881) has an even more specific list. They state that "since you never know when an accident will happen, keeping a pet emergency kit at your home is a good idea. A smaller kit could be used in the car. You can put a first aid kit together yourself and buy the items separately, or buy one ready-made. If you make one yourself, use a small plastic tub with a tight fitting lid to store the following items:

Important Phone Numbers

•    Veterinary clinic phone number and directions to the clinic
•    Emergency clinic phone number and directions
•    Poison control center phone numbers

 Equipment and Supplies

•    Muzzle, or roll of gauze for making a muzzle
•    Magnifying glass
•    Scissors
•    Tweezers
•    Nail clippers and metal nail file
•    Styptic powder or sticks, Kwik Stop, or cornstarch
•    Penlight
•    Nylon slip leash
•    Eye dropper or oral syringe
•    Cotton swabs
•    Cotton balls
•    Clean towels - cloth and paper
•    Rectal thermometer
•    Lubricant such as mineral oil or KY Jelly (without spermicide)
•    Disposable gloves
•    Syringes of various sizes
•    Needle-nose pliers or hemostats
•    Grease-cutting dish soap
•    Bitter Apple or other product to discourage licking
•    Pet carrier
•    Towel or blanket to use as a stretcher, another to keep your dog warm during transport (some pharmacies and camping outlets carry a thermal blanket)
•    Cold packs and heat packs (wrap in towel before using)
•    Stethoscope

Bandaging Materials

•    Square gauze of various sizes - some sterile
•    Non-stick pads
•    First aid tape - both paper (easily comes off of skin) and adhesive types
•    Bandage rolls - gauze and Vetwrap
•    Band-Aids (for humans)

 Nutritional Support

•    Rehydrating solution such as Gatorade or Pedialyte
•    Nutritional supplement such as Nutri-Cal, Vitacal, or Nutristat
•    High sugar source: Karo syrup

 Medicines*

•    Wound disinfectant such as Betadine or Nolvasan
•    Triple antibiotic ointment for skin
•    Antibiotic ophthalmic ointment for eyes, e.g., Terramycin
•    Eye wash solution
•    Sterile saline

•    Antidiarrheal medicine such as Pet Pectate

•    Diphenhydramine (Benadryl) for allergic reactions (obtain dose from your veterinarian)

•    Cortisone spray or cream, such as Itch Stop

•    Ear cleaning solution

•    Hydrogen peroxide (used to make a dog vomit - only use as directed by a veterinarian)

 •    Activated charcoal to absorb ingested poisons (consult your veterinarian before using)

*Watch the expiration dates on any medication, and replace as needed.

•    http://moderndogmagazine.com/articles/diy-make-your-own-canine-first-aid-kit/4629
•    https://www.avma.org/public/EmergencyCare/Pages/Supplies-Checklist.aspx
•    http://www.redcross.org/images/MEDIA_CustomProductCatalog/m4440087_First_Aid_Kit_for_Pets.pdf
•    http://www.petmd.com/dog/slideshows/emergency/pet-first-aid-kit
•    http://www.canismajor.com/dog/fstaidk.html
•    http://vetmedicine.about.com/od/veterinaryqa/f/FirstAidKits.htm

Basic kits will all have the same general items included. However, Different breeds (or species), age groups, and pet lifestyles have different first aid kit needs. For example, pets who take medications regularly should have a couple days supply of all current medications. Your veterinarian can help you customize a first aid kit to meet your pet's additional medical needs.

 

Of course, as stated in the pet first aid article by Janet Tobiassen Crosby, DVM, purchasing or building a kit is a great first step, but won't be a lot of help in the event of an emergency if you are not familiar with how and when to use the items. Dr Tobiassen recommends any or all of the following to be prepared in the event of an emergency:

•    Take a pet first aid class - check with your veterinarian, community college or the Red Cross.
•    Read pet first aid or animal health books - also a good idea to include one in the kit.
•    Find a Pet First Aid or similar (there are several) app - to familiarize yourself and have "on hand" at all times.
•    Familiarize yourself with pet emergency clinics - in your area and to places you travel to.

And, above all, stay safe.

Finding toys for your Boston can be not only a challenge but expensive. So it is doubly nice when not only you find a toy that they will play with and not demolished but has other uses too. 

We have introduced the Kong toy as a great tool to provide mental exercise. Food- and treat-stuffed Kongs are excellent enrichment! Here are a few ideas on how to get the most from your Kong like toys.

 

   Photo: Ali Strinkaus 

 Even dogs that are fed kibble can benefit with a Kong like toy, one idea is to hang the toy from a tree branch or other sturdy object with the bigger hole facing skyward. The dog must leap into the air and knock at the Kong like toy to release his treat.

_{PHOTO: Willa, Courtney Bryson}

 Playing hide and seek: Try this distractional use of a Kong like toy. Mix kibble with a spoonful of canned dog food, cottage cheese, yogurt or other healthy moist food spooned into the  toy.  Place the toy into the freezer.

Your dog must then work a little longer to remove the frozen treat from the toy. 

Multiple Kong toys can be stuffed with the dog’s meal portions and hidden throughout the house, so that the dog must spend his day hunting down and “dissecting” his Kong-kills.

 If you do not mind a little mess you might try this method of providing a positive outlet for high energy Bostons.  Especially good for dogs who love to destroy or chew. You might try sealing Kong toys inside paper bags or cardboard boxes, although you will have a shredded mess to clean up later on.

Also useful for crated dogs who especially need the mental enrichment that may be provided, with a Kong toy during their confinement. If the stuffed Kong is used to reward and amuse while in a crate waiting for an owner to return.  As one owner was quoted, "My dogs run into their crates in the morning and wait impatiently for me to leave, because they know their Kong goodies will not be delivered until I’m ready to head out for the day. Frozen Kongs make my dogs extra eager for me to go and make the crates into a positive place to spend the day."

 Want some more ideas on how to fill a Kong like toy? You might like these also.

Do you make your own home cooked food?  Or do you use canned food?  Your Boston can get enjoyment from getting their food from a Kong like toy. Because there is plenty of moisture, they are great for putting into the freezer.

Photo: Drogo, Janette Morgan

Do you have a cheese lover?   You might want to try this Melted Cheese idea. First fill a Kong with a small amount of cheese along with some kibble or other dry tidbits.  One suggestion was to place the filled Kong in a microwave-safe container, heating it in the microwave until the cheese melts.  Remember to allow plenty of time for it to cool or place directly in the freezer before giving to your dog.  Your Boston will find this a challenging to remove treat.

 Do you have a dog reluctant to work at a Kong like toy if the food is packed and difficult to remove?  One suggestion would be to try layering the toy in a way to make it easier to remove the food. By rewarding them with easy to get layers of moist food and their favorite dry food without freezing. You might even place a little on the outside of the hole to encourage them to become familiar with the process.

 What can you try to put into a Kong like toy?  Remember if your dog is sensitive to, or allergic to certain foods, this is not what you would want to put in these toys.  However here are some ideas on what could be put into Kongs to give excitement to both you and your Dogs...  some of these even I have not thought about and I will try in the future. Different canned dog food, meat flavored baby food, rice, potatoes, cream cheese, peanut butter, small bits of sausage, leftover cooked veggies such as spinach or squash, tuna, raw meat, cooked meet, canned salmon, canned Jack Mackerel, oatmeal, cottage cheese, yogurt.  I bet you could come up with other ideas...  small amounts of lunch meat, cheerios, string cheese, croutons, and biscuits. You can see what I mean.  These are meant to be treats not meals, so small tiny amounts not huge hunks or amounts, unless you are substituting this from the normal amount you feed your dogs.. We do not need any more fat dogs do we!

My dogs have become really motivated and have learned the art of throwing the Kongs on the floor to get the food out. One of my dogs works at licking the easy to reach part then starts throwing it on the floor for the rest to dislodge and come out... The other dogs are learning the fine art of throwing Kongs or running after the now rolling Kong to be the first to scuff up the reward... Luckily for us they are not food aggressive and so this is not a problem. Although you can see the disgust in our big dog's eyes, when the other one gets to the treat first... "Hey, that was mine.  Go get your own!" kind of look...  So do be careful if food aggression is an issue we do not want a fight...

Photo: Drogo, Janette Morgan

WARNINGS:

Be prepared to help your dog remove the tightly lodged biscuit using a pair of pliers if it proves too difficult and is driving your dog nuts!

If you do put food into your Kong like toys remember leftover food will rot if not cleaned. Do not forget to clean out the Kongs after each use.  Do not assume they are self-cleaning.

Do you have a favorite Kong stuffing trick or recipe? Share it in the comments below! 

 Something new has been moving into our neighborhoods and we as pet owners have not been paying attention... This is a plea to not overact and panic. But this is another real danger to our pets and even young children. This is a warning and a plea to be aware. This is about  "wild dogs". This is the Coyote.  First we must realize Coyotes are not domesticated dogs this is a wild animal. It follows the wild pack rules of survival. Something our domesticated pets remember but do not normally have to deal with... The survival of the fittest... The wild dogs are lean, mean, very smart, and generally very strong. Not like our overfed, cute, loveable, plump, weak Pets.  They have not been de-wormed, or neutered. Coyotes are covered with ticks, fleas, mites, carry all the viruses, and have all the ills that a truly wild life without a good health care brings...  However they are still god's wild creatures and must be dealt with humanely.  

Okay now just why is a wild Coyote a threat? I live in a fenced neighborhood in the middle of a large suburban area?  or My fence is 6 ft tall nothing can get over it... or my dog only goes outside when I am there, We have a doggie door and a 6 ' fence.... etc etc...  The Coyote doesn't care about your efforts.... The Coyote is trying to survive, feed its young and protect its territory.  The Coyote sees your pets as food. The Coyote was not called wily for nothing was he? 

Coyote basic facts: Why you should be concerned.

You have had skunks, rats, mice, deer, opossum, racoons and squirrels, snakes, chipmunks and recently the armadillo etc., in your yard right? Did they look at your neighborhood with its nicely mowed yards and trimmed bushes and say "Oh that belongs to humans. I won't go there"? Did these critters climb over, dig under, or just walk through a open gate?   How many reports have you heard of critters getting into houses with doggie doors?  Well neither does the Coyote stop and turn away. In fact there are daily reports of Coyotes in large cities  Why?  FOOD, garbage bins, trash wrappers with food, and Coyotes prey on other animals. So they will go where the food is and that food just might be your pet.

The following is excerpts from reports by some experts on Coyotes in California, Kentucky, Georgia

"Attack incidents are typically preceded by a sequence of increasingly bold coyote behaviors, including: nighttime Coyote attacks on pets; sightings of Coyotes in neighborhoods at night; sightings of Coyotes in morning and evening; attacks on pets during daylight hours; attacks on pets on leashes and chasing of joggers and bicyclists; and finally, mid-day sightings of Coyotes in and around children’s play areas. In suburban areas, Coyotes can lose their fear of humans as a result of coming to rely on ample food resources including increased numbers of rabbits and rodents, household refuse, pet food, available water from ponds and landscape".¹ 

In North Alabama we have had both dogs and cats pulled through fences. Sightings of Coyotes in backyards with fences over  6'.  Yes they can jump and crawl and climb. Last year there were reports of pets grabbed out of backyards with owners not 6 or 8 ft away...

Contrary to popular belief, these animals do not hunt in packs but rather are primarily solitary hunters. Small house pets (especially cats), young or small livestock and poultry are vulnerable and susceptible to predation by a coyote.⁴

Have you seen this photo from Manhattan?

 

 This was a neighborhood cat... unknown place

 Another problem, intentional feeding of Coyotes by residents. The safe environment provided by general public, is also thought to be a major contributing factor. To contribute to Coyotes’ loss of fear of humans and to a dependency on resources in the suburban environment.

Corrective action can be effective if implemented, before Coyote attacks on pets and children become more common. However, if environmental modification and changes in human behavior toward Coyotes are delayed, then removal of offending predators by traps or shooting is required. We note the failure of various non-lethal harassment techniques to correct the problem in situations where Coyotes have become habituated to human-provided food resources. Coyote attacks on humans in suburbia are preventable, but the long-term solution of this conflict requires public education, changes in residents’ behavior, and in some situations, the means to effectively remove individual offending animals.

“Coyotes are very adaptable. They are now found in all 120 Kentucky counties,” said Laura Patton, Furbearer Biologist for the Kentucky Department of Fish and Wildlife Resources. “I suspect there are higher concentrations in agricultural areas.”  Coyotes are wary and often difficult to hunt because of their keen sense of sight, smell and hearing. While they don’t hunt in packs like wolves, it is not uncommon to see family groups of Coyotes together, especially in the late summer or early fall.²
 "Coyotes can lose their fear of people and come to associate humans with this safe, resource-rich environment. This problem is exacerbated by people who intentionally feed Coyotes. In such situations, some Coyotes have begun to act aggressively toward humans, chasing joggers and bicyclists, confronting people walking their dogs, and stalking small children.
While rodents and rabbits are typically main components of a Coyote’s diet, local food habits often reflect the composition of the local prey base. Analyses of Coyote scats(poop) collected near Claremont, California revealed that Coyotes relied heavily on “pets”  and rabbits in winter and spring (Wirtz et al. 1982);²

Based on an analysis of Coyote attacks previously described, there is a predictable sequence of observed changes in Coyote behavior that indicates an increasing risk to human safety (Baker and Timm 1998). We now define these changes, in order of their usual pattern of occurrence, as follows:
1) An increase in observing Coyotes on streets and in yards at night.
2) An increase in Coyotes approaching adults and/or taking pets at night
3) Early morning and late afternoon daylight observance of Coyotes on streets and in parks and yards.
4)Daylight observance of Coyotes chasing or taking pets.
5)Coyotes attacking and taking pets on leash or in close proximity to their owners i.e. back yard with owners watching in horror; Coyotes chasing joggers, bicyclists, and other adults.
6)Coyotes seen in and around children’s play areas, school grounds, and parks in mid-day.
7) Coyotes acting aggressively toward adults during mid-day.²

In addition to the human safety issue, Coyotes’ presence in close association with humans can represent a potential health risk to people and their pets. Rabies, if it were to become established in suburban Coyote populations, could easily put humans and domestic animals at risk.

Food sources for Coyotes
Neighborhood residents need to understand that Coyotes will use pet food, improperly stored household refuse, various fruits and seeds accessible from gardens and fallen from backyard trees, and compost piles as food sources. Backyard bird feeders may attract rodents and rabbits, as will certain kinds of lush landscaping, which in turn attract coyotes. Tall or thick vegetation needs to be cleared, wherever possible, to prevent Coyotes from using it for cover near residences. Small pets need to be kept indoors, or in well-fenced kennels when they are outdoors.

People should be informed that feeding also puts neighborhood children and pets at risk of serious injury or death, as well as increasing risks to humans and pets from Coyote vectored diseases (disease carried and spread).

In recent years, Coyotes have made suburban areas their home, and are often observed in back yards, or prowling neighborhood streets during the night. To discourage Coyotes from hanging around, keep pets and pet food inside during the night, and put trash secured in garbage cans.

Residents can reduce their vulnerability to Coyote attack by carrying a walking stick and vary daily routines and walking route. Coyotes will learn and take advantage of people’s routines. Exercising pets in mid-day may be safer than in early morning or late evening when Coyotes are sometimes most active.
Georgia: In 1969, Coyote populations were confirmed by hunters, trappers or road-kills in only about 23 counties. Today, Coyotes call all 159 counties home. The main trait that has made Coyotes so successful is that they are extremely adaptable. A biologist would say that Coyotes have non-specific needs for habitat and food, which means they can live nearly anywhere and survive by eating nearly anything available. They are not finicky eaters, nearly everything is on the menu. Coyotes will eat whatever they can catch, including, but not limited to: rabbits, mice and other rodents, grasshoppers, watermelon, persimmons, deer (mostly fawns), dog food off your back porch, house cats, small dogs, squirrels, opossums, corn, chickens, raccoons, snakes, berries and birds — and they aren’t above feasting on roadkill or scavenging through household garbage.  The males range in size from 25 to 40 pounds. Females range from 22 to 35 pounds.  Coyotes mate in February and have from five to seven pups in April in a den in a hollow tree or burrow. The number of pups and the number of breeding females varies according to the prey base. When prey is abundant, litter size increases and more females breed. The pups are weaned at about six weeks but usually stay with the adults until they disperse in the fall. ³

Founder and director of the Atlanta Wild Animal Rescue Effort Wildlife Center in Lithonia GA, who has more than two decades of Coyote-trapping experience knows.  “They’ll eat anything,” said Elliott, who operates Atlanta Wildlife Relocators. “They’re like possums — except they eat possums, too."

Today, they live in every state in the continental United States, plus Alaska. Coyotes arrived in Georgia in the 1970s, and have taken root like kudzu. (If you live in the south YOU know what Kudzu is).

¹Coyote Attacks: An Increasing Suburban Problem Wednesday,

January 02, 2013 USDA APHIS Wildlife Services, Sacramento, California

² fw.ky.gov/Wildlife/Pages/Coyotes.aspx

³ Georgia Outdoor News  gon.com/article.php?id=677

^₄ Georgia Wildlife Resources Division