This has been an ongoing issue at our house and I think many other places where pets are.
We have put together some suggested items that might help some pet and Boston owners. Yet, have no effect for others… It all depends on what is causing the itch… This is the ultimate Mystery…

We have tried several of possible solutions and in process of trying a few more.  Like many of you, I have questions on some of these and will do more research before trying them, others may not work because they do not apply to our itchy skin problems:

Recently I was reading from an article by Nancy Kerns who suggested that “Most holistic veterinary practitioners recommend switching any itchy dog to a complete and balanced home-prepared diet containing "real foods." This will decrease the dog's exposure to unnecessary or complex chemicals and give his body the opportunity to utilize the higher-quality nutrients present in fresh foods. Whether the diet is cooked or raw, the increased nutrient quality and availability of fresh whole foods will improve the health of any dog who currently receives even the best dry or canned foods.”

I can in most part agree with this since all you have to do is read labels of most pet foods or even our own human food, to see why local grown fresh foods would be healthier for most of us and our pets.

"Feeding fresh, unprocessed, organic foods provides more of the building blocks for a healthy immune system," says Dr. Lisa Pesch, a holistic veterinarian in Sebastopol CA. "Dogs who have allergies are more likely to be deficient in trace proteins and sugars (proteoglycans) that are used by the immune systems. Deficiencies in these nutrients will increase allergic response." That would explain some of the itchy…

But what about this common plea, straight from one of our fur friends?
“What can mom do to help stop itchy skin after being treated to remove all those pesky fleas that made me loose hair and scab over? Hooray! No more fleas... but I sure am itchy still.. Can you help me?”
Well we have reached out to our friends and searched around the internet, digging in some corners for possible knowledge that might in some cases solve this one and hopefully give some relief if not only temporarily for other fur friends… I always say “It is good to have several options to work with... If one doesn't work try another…”
So here we go.  Some  do it yourself/make it yourself solutions that  in most cases will be safe  even for human moms dads, even the kids, and most importantly our fur-friends (check first before using on the cats). And Believe it or not, may work better than the expensive, RX only, solutions we many times try..  READY?

FIRST, let’s try this: “I will give u an oatmeal bath!”
We have had several of our friends tell us they use oatmeal baths... So at first i thought you just pour oatmeal into the bath water... No quite... Try this instead!

• Pour 1 cup of plain, uncooked oatmeal into a blender. (Probably not the instant oatmeal type.)
• Process the oatmeal into a smooth powder. This consistency will allow the oatmeal to blend and dissolve easily into the water.

Polysaccharides in oats will coat your precious pooch's skin with a protective, nourishing barrier that helps to prevent itchiness and dry skin.

• Place a nonslip mat on the floor of the bathtub before starting the water. A towel will work, but be sure to have another handy for drying off the dog later. The mat or towel will help him to grip with his claws, making him feel more secure while he's bathing.
• Turn on the water and allow it to fill the bathtub until it's high enough to reach the lowest point of your dog's chest. Gently stir the oatmeal into the bath water.
• Make bath time a positive experience for your dog by speaking sweetly and calmly. Place him in the bathtub and gently poor water the water mixed with oatmeal over his coat.
• Gently massage the oatmeal solution into his coat, while talking to him sweetly, for 10 to 15 minutes. If he isn't enjoying the experience, be patient with him, knowing that the better this experience is, the easier bath time will be in the future.
• When bath time is over, pat him dry with a towel, but not rigorously.(Oatmeal is known for its topical calming and soothing properties. It's a common ingredient in many commercial dog shampoos. Oatmeal provides an organic approach to bath time.)

OR

Doing a coconut oil treatment on your dogs skin is also very beneficial.

The  "mask"  treatments help reduce flaking and improve the integrity of the dogs skin. They also support the lipid barrier, which makes his skin healthier and more resistant to pathogens like yeast and opportunistic bacteria.

It’s important to do coconut oil treatments on clean skin.

With this method it is suggested that you should use use 100 percent organic, cold-pressed, human grade coconut oil, which you might decide to buy by the half-gallon tub because. Added benefit: Most dogs will like to lick the oil while you’re doing his treatment!

• Apply the coconut oil to his body like a mask. Those of you familiar with coconut oil know that below a certain temperature it’s solid, and at warmer temps it becomes liquid.
• Scoop out the coconut oil and applying it everywhere – from the tips of your dog's ears right down to his toenails. It is safe for your dog to lick himself during his treatment!

• Applying coconut oil to front legs and chest. This treatment not only keeps skin soft, but also does a great job improving the natural defenses of the skin. Coconut oil contains lauric acid, which is a fabulous immune builder, both orally and topically. Do one more bath after the five minutes is up, and a very light rinse. Don’t lather him up too much. You wl not want your dog, so remove the excess oils with a light application of shampoo and another quick rinse.

• The treatment leaves skin not only incredibly soft, but also in a healthier condition. You might decide to do a coconut oil skin treatment  about once a week.

Source video:  healthypets.mercola.com

AND WORTH KNOWING ABOUT

Note still having trouble with fleas?  Did you know that  Raw Extra Virgin Cold Pressed Coconut Oil. It contains Linolenic Acid which kills and prevents fleas. It can be bought at the grocery store, at the pharmacy , or really anywhere they sell food and cooking oils.

• Take about a tablespoon at a time (If the coconut oil is kept in a warm environment/room, it will look like a clear liquid. If the coconut oil is in a cooler climate, it will be white and look like lard).
• Rub into the fur or skin of your dog where he/she has fleas, dry flaky skin, raw skin from scratching, or a loss of fur. It will be a bit oily of course, but rub it in very, very well.
• The fleas will die within 5 mins.

Take some extra in your hands and run it through the outer layers of your dogs fur and their under belly as well.
Put a sweater on your dog for the day or overnight so the oil can set, and prevent the dog from licking it up because it tastes good, although it is safe if they do try and lick it, unlike some commercial flea treatments

Reapply each day, or a few times a week, until you know how it'll work on your pet and you notice all fleas are gone and not returning, and/or when you see the skin clearing up and possibly fur regrowing back.
Source:  wikihow.com/Use-Coconut-Oil-for-Flea-and-Skin-Treatment-on-Dogs

AND THERE WAS A QUESTION ABOUT USING ALOE PLANTS 

SO WHAT ABOUT  aloe?

Aloe Vera gel can be applied directly to the itching skin surface. The itchy skin area of your dog should be washed properly with lukewarm water. Again your dog may prone to lick the area where the gel is applied. Hence it is wise to wrap the area with aluminum foil for a few minute. It would prevent the dog from doing so.

This step can be continued for three times in a day.

Anybody can try this treatment for their dog at home. But you can get   right guidance from an expert veterinarian if more care is required.

It will take almost 4 days to cure the itching completely in dog’s skin. Aloe vera gel has a rich concentration of amino acid which moistens the dog’s skin and drives the healing process without any side effects.

Aloe Vera is not only used for the treatment of itchy skin but also for many skin problems like eczema, skin allergy, hot spots and skin rashes. Aloe Vera contains an enzyme which reduces the inflammatory proteins developments in the skin cells. Hence it is also found effective in treating swelling and wounds in dogs.
Aloe Vera gel is considered as a pure natural remedy for itchy dog’s skin. But it is also important to locate the root cause behind the dog’s dry skin. If the dry skin is caused by vitamin deficiency in dog’s body then external treatment will not favors for better result.

If the dry skin problem in dogs is unattended then there is chance of spreading the diseases all over the coat. Because dog’s basic instinct is to scratch the area and make it tore. Therefore early treatment of itchy dogs is highly recommended and the use of aloe vera gel will help to get a fine and healthy dog’s coat.

It is better not to try other chemical drugs to treat dry skin problems. The chemical creams usually spoil the stiffness and natural glow of dog’s coat. Today, owners are happier for all these natural treatment is ready made in pet shops. History tells that Aloe Vera has been using for various itchy dog skin issues over the centuries.

If you are lucky enough to have an aloe plant in your home or garden, obtaining and applying the gel is a snap.

Simply use a clean, sharp scissors to harvest one of the plant’s fleshy leaves near the base. But, remember, avoid stressing the aloe by using only thriving, well-grown plants.
Slit the leaf down the middle, squeeze out the clear, sticky gel, and apply it three times a day to treat minor burns, mild sunburn and itchy, inflamed skin.
If you don’t have access to fresh aloe gel, commercial aloe ointments, creams and lotions are available.

Are there any precautions? Some experts suggest not using aloe gel on moderate or severe burns or on open, deep or infected wounds.

Allergies to aloe have been reported; if the gel causes a rash or hives, discontinue use immediately. And, if you are allergic to garlic, onions, tulips or any other member of the lily family, avoiding the use of aloe vera may be a good idea.
SOURCE:    naturalhealth365.com/natural_healing

WOULD YOU LIKE TO MAKE YOUR OWN ALOE GEL?

 We decided to look this up and see if we could do it at home using our aloe plant  Guess what YOU CAN!

To make your own, all you need is a healthy aloe plant.

Aloe vera gel can be mixed with other ingredients to help preserve it for more than a few days.

Slice off an outer leaf of an aloe plant. The outer leaves are more likely to be mature. They'll contain plenty of fresh, healthy gel.

Look for leaves around the outside of the plant, with bases growing close to the ground.

Use a sharp knife to make a clean cut near the base.
Since aloe vera gel is perishable, it's best not to make a huge batch at once, unless you plan to give some away.

Cutting off just a leaf or two, especially if they're large, should be sufficient to make 1/2 to 1 cup of gel.
 If your plant is young, be especially careful not to cut off too much at once.

Cutting off all of the outer leaves could damage the plant

Drain the resin for 10 minutes. Place the leaves upright in a cup to let the dark yellow resin drain out. The resin contains latex, which can be slightly irritating to skin.

It's best to drain it out so it won't get into your gel.

Peel the leaves. Use a vegetable peeler to carefully peel away the green portion of the leaves.

Be sure to cut through the inner white layer to the gel underneath.

Peel off all of the skin on once side of the each leaf, leaving a canoe-shaped half filled with gel.
If you have large leaves, it may be helpful to cut them into smaller pieces before peeling.
Discard the skin as you go so it won't get mixed in with your gel.

Scoop the gel out with a spoon. The clear, soft gel is easily scoopable. Scoop it all out into a clean bowl until there's nothing left in the leaf half. Consider mixing the gel with a natural preservative. If you have a lot of gel and you want it to keep for a month or two, mix in 500mg powdered Vitamin C or 400 IU vitamin E for every 1/4 cup of gel you have.

Place the ingredients together in a blender and blend well. The gel will look foamy at first.

Place the gel in a sterilized, clean glass jar. If you used the preservative, the gel will keep for several months in the refrigerator. Without it, it will keep for a week or two.

Use the gel. Apply it to sunburns or other minor, surface burns. Aloe can also be used as a skin moisturizer or an ingredient in homemade body products.
Never use aloe vera gel on deep cuts or blistered skin. It should only be used on surface skin irritation, since it can prevent deep cuts from healing properly.

Try blending 1/2 cup aloe with 1/4 cup melted coconut oil to make a healing, moisturizing massage lotion.

Learn how to grow an aloe plants so you'll be able to make a batch of gel whenever you want. In place of vitamin C powder, you can crush a vitamin C pill and stir it in. A few drops of grapefruit extract will also do the trick.

PHOTOS provided by: Courtney Bryson, Beth Bartlett and Linda Trader

When I was living at home (many years ago), I remember mom so happy, they had just purchased a pair of "AKC papered" toy poodles.  Yes they paid a lot of money for them. The reasoning was that by buying from a breeder whose dogs where registered with the AKC, they were being assured that these were "purebred" and would be healthy living long lives, have great looks and personality... Well that was the myth I grew up with, and my mother believed. But that was not our experience even 30 years ago.   Thinking back on those days, and being interested in finding out just what the AKC really does, and why the negative comments I have recently read, I decided to see what I could find.  Reading from the AKC web site and its published history, I took the opportunity to study the purposes and value of the organization, in the context of the average dog owner.

The AKC is an organization which is “dedicated to upholding the integrity of its Registry, promoting the sport of purebred dogs and breeding for type and function." They have affiliated organizations consisting of Dog Show Clubs. They definite the acceptable standards for breeding exhibiting of purebred dogs. Nothing wrong with that.
Founded in 1884 they have evolved into a well-organized institution. They have created and taken the lead in controlling, the keeping the lid on just what is a purebred dog breed, what standards will be kept for breeding show dogs, how the shows will be ran and tight hold of its registry of individual registered AKC bred dogs.   Along the way they provide support in advocating purebred dogs as family companion, advancing canine health and work to protect the rights of dog owners. But the bottom line from my point of view is they are a tight knit group that works to keep the monetary value of purebred dogs. For breeders, and those involved, the registry and dog shows, equals quite a large money making project.

They are allowed by most states "to adopt and enforce uniform rules regulating and governing dog shows  and field  trials, to  regulate the  conduct of persons  interested in exhibiting, running, breeding, registering, purchasing and selling dogs, to detect, prevent, and punish  frauds in connection therewith, to protect the interests of its members, to maintain  and publish an official stud book and an official kennel gazette, and generally to do everything to advance the study, breeding, exhibiting, running and maintenance of the purity of thoroughbred dogs."

However, from the average dog owner looking for a companion pet, you just have to ask yourself, “What is the value to the average dog owner who wants to have a purebred, who is attracted to the characteristics of a particular breed?  From my point of view, "not much, if anything." One has to ask… “Does having a registered dog guarantee a certain personality? No  Does having a papered registered dog guaranteed a clean bill of health?   No…. So what does paying the going rate for a AKC registered purebred dog get you?  
Well IF I was a breeder, it would mean everything. It would mean I could get a "decent" price for the litters produced. It would mean getting respect inside the exhibiting (show) halls. If you have ever looked at what a professional breeder does to ensure a profitable lineage, that includes show quality and possible winning dogs, you know this is not something for the feint at heart. The selection, testing, and breeding process is not cheap. And the disastrous loss of litters, or the Dam (mother of puppies) or a Sire (male stud), can be a  heartbreaking setback. For many breeders this is a serious income producing business, where the health and breeding of the dog is a huge part of their reputation. Owing a winning Sire (Stud) dog, with a champion pedigree, is another large cost. I am not saying that the breeders don’t love and respect their dogs, but it is only one part of the picture.

A  dog registry keeps records on dogs. Registries will, for a fee ($10-$80), record and maintain information such as the dog’s name, breed, color, parents, and who owns him. Papers do not guarantee the health, quality or temperament of a puppy. A pedigree is a record of a dog's ancestors, not that the dog is purebred. Many hybrids - also called 'designer' dogs - come with "pedigree papers" but it means only that each parent may be a purebred. Neither will a "paper" ensure the dog will fit nicely into your life style, no matter how many “champions” are in the dog’s background.

What else does the AKC do?
The AKC sanctions dog shows and performance events. They record the results of these events and issue Certificates to the dog owners when the requirements for a title are met. i.e. Best of Show.

 AKC's Canine Good Citizen (CGC) Program is one of the programs sponsored by the American Kennel Club. There are many applications of this entry level program that go beyond the testing and certifying of dogs. Some therapy dog groups use the CGC as a partial screening tool, and some 4-H groups around the country have been using the CGC as a beginning dog training program for children. There are many training programs to assist and educated the public with the ownership, training and health of the dogs.

The AKC contributes to health research. They have established the Canine Health Foundation (AKC/CHF), which issues grants for research to benefit dogs. The funds for these grants come from individuals, clubs, and corporations, as well as the AKC.

Then there is The Westminster dog show and The Dog Museum of America, was established in June 1980, and formally opened in September, 1982 at 51 Madison Avenue. Five years later, it moved to its present location in St. Louis, Missouri and subsequently changed its name to The American Kennel Club Museum of the Dog.

While there is much good done with this organization, perhaps one of the main failures, is the so called breeder certification program established for breeding programs that have turned out to certify some of the most offensive large commercial breeding enterprises.    They simply insure the pedigree, or verify that the dog is purebred. There are no health or breeding practice guarantees. Although the AKC has  kennel inspectors, they only visit breeders who register seven or more litters per year -- basically exempting backyard breeders.

It's not a foolproof system; It is my understanding, and it is acknowledged, that people have and do lie to the AKC. Many puppy mill owners routinely lie about the parentage of their puppies: a pedigreed puppy is worth several times the price of a "mutt".  At about $15 per dog, the AKC makes a lot of money from breeders, including those some would consider puppy mills, who register with the AKC.  People think they're helping the puppy by rescuing it from reckless breeders, But what they are really doing is perpetuating the female (mother) to a life of hell and torment.  Unfortunately, partially due to the AKC's stated mission, purpose, reputation, and what this means to the public, this registration is horribly misused and there are many reported and documented commercial "puppy mills" padding their wallets, at the expense of the AKC's reputation and detriment of the lives of the dogs that live their lives as "breeding machines" in horrible conditions.

 What does the AKC  not do?

The AKC does not register or certify breeders. Anyone, who owns an AKC registered bitch and breeds it to an AKC registered dog, can register the litter with the AKC. The AKC does, however, reserve the right to suspend a breeder’s registration privileges, either temporarily or indefinitely. These suspensions are levied on breeders who do not maintain the accurate paperwork, falsify paperwork, refuse to allow the AKC to perform an inspection, or those that have been convicted in Court of animal cruelty or animal abuse.

 The AKC does not have any legal authority to take possession of dogs, prevent someone from breeding dogs, or take any legal action for a breeder’s failure to abide by their regulations. The only authority they have is to revoke a breeder’s registration privileges, meaning that dogs owned by that person are not eligible for registration with the AKC. The AKC will also impose fines and/or suspend individuals for improper conduct at sanctioned events.

 The AKC does not guarantee the accuracy of the information on a dog’s "blue slip". The breeder, on the honor system, supplies this information to the AKC. The AKC is currently using DNA testing during it’s inspections to verify the parentage of dogs on the premises, but this is only done on a very small percentage of breeders. Breeders can have a DNA profile performed on their dogs and have this information included in the AKC database, but this is not an AKC requirement.

The AKC does not guarantee the quality of any dog. When a dog is eligible for AKC registration, all that means is that the breeder is in good standing with the AKC and both the sire and the dam (as recorded by the breeder) are registered with the AKC. Blind dogs, deaf dogs, and dogs with physical deformities are every bit as eligible for registration as top show dogs.

 

Final thoughts

This organization (and others) are dog registries. One big difference between  other pet registries and the AKC, is that pet registries have “voluntary compliance” with breeding standards. DNA testing is not required, so a breeder can mate a female with several males but list only one sire. In fact, the breeder can list any male dog, even if he was not mated to the female because there’s no proof required. Lax rules and lack of accountability can lead to poor quality dogs, congenital defects and dogs that are not in fact purebreds.

Many of the so-called “designer dogs” such as Labradoodles (Labrador/poodle crosses) and Puggles (Pug/Beagle crosses) can be registered with the pet registries. These dogs cannot be registered with the AKC because they are not purebred breeds.

Pet registries are referred to as “breeder friendly” because of the lack of accountability required. Hobby breeders, backyard breeders and puppy mills, use pet registries and sometimes register the same dog under different names with different registries.

Reputable breeders who truly care about breed standards and healthy dogs with good temperaments will register their dogs with the AKC. The AKC will not allow multiple registrations.

Unfortunately in the US most of the general public do not understand “papers”. CKC, APRI, AKC, UABR are all just kennel clubs in the US that have databases of purebred dog parents. You can take a dog with APRI registration papers and a 5 generation pedigree and ask AKC to register the dog. MOST of the time they will. As long as there are sufficient dogs in the pedigree that are already registered with AKC that they have record of already.

However, AKC is just another kennel club in the US, with a large database showing purebred dog parentage. A lot of breeders choose to use other kennel clubs for their dog papers because for one reason or another they get angry at AKC.

AKC is the best know kennel club in the US because they are the largest and have a huge marketing campaign. And it works……

 

If this is your first time, you will be full of doubt. You will have a lot of questions.  It is normal to not want to talk to others for fear they will not understand, or sadly not care, what you are going through.  They will either not understand why you even hesitate, or on the flip-side they may be furious that you would even consider putting down a life... This is  a  articles written for you.

Each of our Boston guests, in their own way, were great teachers, who taught me so much I will  always treasure these lessons on life and death.

I would like to share some of these teachings, with you, wishing that their teachings to me, might also help you as you go forward.

I have had several rescued Bostons that blessed me with allowing me to walked with them on their last steps towards the rainbow bridge... It is so hard to know how long they would be with us when I agreed to foster them until their time was fulfilled. Joyfully, they lived usually for much longer, before their health became so degraded and the decision was made to help them cross. Some just without warning, decided on their own to leave us without notice...I will always feel like I never said goodbye.

It is never, never easy, but I kept in mind what they showed me. This is a normal part of life. We are born, we grow old, and we die, of something. unfortunately,  so do our beloved companion pets. .. We humans can only help provide love, and sometimes medications to provide comfort. I have learned to understand that when the quality of life fails, and you cannot stabilize, when there is not going to be any improvement, it may just be time to help them cross into the arms of their creator.

I must not let my fears, and uncertainty about death, get in the way of what is best for the Boston. I try to think of this time as having the honor and privilege of them sharing, their final experiences of unconditional love with me.  Separating the two is so difficult, but to be fair to a Boston you must. Of course there were times when I would become very unsure, and start doubting what I observed. The vet would, when I ask, reassure me it was time, they were in too much pain, or we would not be able to stabilize them.

I could choose to continue to watch them fade and pump in more medicine to continue to reduce the pain.  But I would not improve the quality of life, and they would die, no matter what the vet could do or I could wish.  The thought of filling them with more pain reducing medication, where they would be numb to the pain, just so I could watch them die.  Or I could hug them, love them and let them cross the rainbow in my arms, as the vet suggested might be the most humane way.   What kind of choice was this. So hard. What is the right decision? How can you ever be sure which decision is the right one?  Is there a right decision?
But amidst the saddens, even now, several years later, a fleeting memory of love, a delight and joy, will float in front of my pain and sadness of making those decisions.  Like a butterfly that gently floats into sight, and as I remember another joyful event will drift in then another. I am lost in the experience of sharing a very special moment in time of a very special teacher.  When I look at the many photos taken in the last days with the distance of time I know the right decisions were made. The passing of life spirit from them is so obvious, the pain in their eyes, makes me feel sad, maybe we should not have not waited as long as we did.

So hard and I will never know what was the right decision, to help them cross and not suffer or let them remain and suffer, unable to help. How do you ever feel like the decision made was the "real" right one?  I do get some comfort when I see how others handle this struggle, from a distance, sometimes the decision seems like it is so much easier. I know I am not the only one that has faced this, I am not alone.

But when you are there holding, feeding, cleaning up after, watching their breathing, panting, and looking into their eyes... so much harder... Despite all my doubts, something (I want to believe it was the dogs spirit), told me I’d done the right thing.

 Each time it is different, each time I learn something new, They are not afraid to cross, I wish I will be as unafraid of the end as they who live in the moment seem to be. All you can do is ask your vet to help decide when all than can be done is done. and it is out of our hands and let the Boston tell us. It’s the strangest thing, but sometimes I thought the dogs were more concerned, that I was accepting their leaving. If you listen and watch you will know.  Our precious dogs are not afraid of death... But we are..

The relief of pain and suffering is probably the most common reason owners have for euthanasing a beloved pet. Because animals are now living long enough (just like people) to die slowly by degrees from chronic, incurable, sometimes-painful illnesses like cancer, renal disease and heart failure, it is becoming very common for owners to have to make this choice about what is kindest for their terminally ill pets.
Not every animal that develops or is diagnosed with a terminal illness needs to be put down right away. Many of our Bostons with the right medications and diet have a good quality of life and do not need to be put down right away. 

 As long as these animals are not suffering; are not in unmanageable pain and are performing all of their normal functions adequately (eating, drinking and toileting normally and not losing excessive amounts of weight), then it is generally fine to keep them going.¹

This next part is graphic so you may not want to read it but others may rather learn here what occurs when you bring your dieing Boston to the veterinarian to let your dog cross the rainbow.. For others you may want to know so below this saying is for those ready to learn what will happen once you ask your veterinarian to  help you say good bye.

Just remember it is YOUR friend, YOUR Boston, that is passing away and you can do anything you wish to ease your transition into the time of separation from that friend.

 Typical humane euthanasia procedure:

This is where the term "put to sleep" comes from. The animal peacefully and instantly falls asleep (undergoes anaesthesia) and then passes through into death without experiencing any pain.¹

In order to administer the euthanasia solution, your veterinarian must gain entry into a vein. The euthanasia solution is specially made to act quickly and painlessly but it must be administered intravenously. This requires that your Boston be calm and confident. If the veterinarian requests your permission to sedate your dog, please understand that the request is made in order to humanely and peacefully accomplish the task at hand. If your Boston is uncooperative, defensive, afraid or even fractious, your veterinarian and you will not be able to properly carry out the euthanasia procedure.When the veterinarian is ready to administer the euthanasia solution the assistant will help hold your dog and put a slight amount of pressure on a vein, usually in the foreleg. This allows the veterinarian to see the vein better and aids in passing a fine needle into the vein. When it is certain that the needle is within the vein the veterinarian slowly injects the euthanasia solution.²

Some important things you need to also make decisions on if you ask your veterinarian to help your Boston cross the bridge. These only you the dogs owner can answer...

Do you stay with your Boston while it crosses over?

 Keep in mind, then, how YOU will act at your pet's final moments is to remember that euthanasia is a completely personal experience.

You have to decide what is best for you and your pet. Your pet has been a huge part of your life for a long time and this is not an easy thing for you to do."²

 The decision to euthanasia is indicated when the animal is starting to suffer as a result of its incurable disease and drugs are no longer available or enough to help relieve this suffering.

Animals that are constantly in pain due to an enlarging tumor; animals that are constantly in agony from lesions in the bones or joints (e.g. bone cancer, severe arthritis); animals that are always vomiting, diarrhea and suffering from intestinal pain and upset as a consequence of severe intestinal disease or ulceration caused by chronic renal or liver failure. In these kinds of cases, it is often much kinder to put the animal out of its misery using veterinary drugs than it is to force the animal to go on until it eventually dies in agony from its disorder. Sometimes the pain and suffering involved in the care and attempted cure of an animal patient is simply not worth the very small chance there will be of a good outcome. This is a valid reason for an animal to be put out of its misery.¹

The idea of what constitutes a "quality of life" for an animal and what importance "dignity" plays to an animal differs from owner to owner and pet to pet. Many humans would consider it a fate worse than death to be left blind and/or deaf and yet a dog or cat may cope just fine.¹

You certainly have a right to know what will be done with your dog or cat if you choose to leave it with the veterinarian.

It is your personal choice whether or not to be present in the exam or surgery room when the veterinarian administers the euthanasia solution. Some people choose to stay in the waiting room during the euthanasia procedure and then briefly view their pet after it has passed away, maybe then spending a few moments in private with their pet. No one is comfortable with death, especially your veterinarian and animal hospital staff who face death every day.

 It is your personal choice whether or not to be present in the exam or surgery room when the veterinarian administers the euthanasia solution.

It is perfectly normal and acceptable to cry.  This can be a very sad time and even though the animal hospital staff might have to go through this all too often, there really is no getting used to euthanizing a dog or cat. The animal hospital staff has often formed a strong connection with many of the pets in their care and often join in the crying; so you really have no need to pretend that you can handle it when inside you feel terrible.²
If you think your pet would be more comfortable and less apprehensive (not all pets relish coming to the animal hospital!) you may ask the veterinarian to provide your pet with some sedation prior to your visit.

Many pet owners choose to help hold their pet and if possible even have the pet in their arms at the time of euthanasia.
Usually within six to twelve seconds after the solution is injected the pet will take a slightly deeper breath, then grow weak and finally lapse into what looks like a deep sleep. (This state gives rise to the questionable euphemism "to put to sleep".)

If the client chooses to take the pet home, by pre-arrangement a container is at the ready to receive the pet. The veterinarian usually will place the pet into the container and carry the deceased pet out to the car for the owner.

If the pet owner chooses to have the pet cremated the veterinarian generally will make the arrangements through a cremation service and notify you when you can expect to have the ashes returned.

It is not unusual nor unreasonable for pet owners to save a bit of their pet's fur as a physical remembrance of their special friend.

Some people want their pet to be buried or cremated with a few photos, or a rose or even a personal letter or poem from the pet owner to their pet.

Here's another suggestion: You may want someone to be with you after the euthanasia appointment to drive you home. You may be surprised how difficult it can be to concentrate on driving after such an emotional event as what you just experienced.

 Related articles to read:

Grieving Our Pets Part 1 of 2
Grieving Our Pets Part 2 of 2
Making the Decision to Euthanize a Beloved Pet
RAINBOW BRIDGE, a great comfort for those suffering from a loss

Am I crazy to hurt so much?
Memorializing a Pet

 Sources:

¹www.pet-informed-veterinary-advice-online.com/what is euthanasia

² petmd.com/dog euthanasia what to expect