Here is two examples of what owners go through with fearful dogs:
"Right now to do routine maintenance on her, it really would be better to sedate her and that will cost about $125.00. I am embarrassed about her nails because they are terrible. I think her feet hurt to walk on them. When they try to do anything, she goes nuts and must have a muzzle (I am not against that), she poops, and pees and she is not big enough to have enough people hold her and have room to do anything. but I would like to hear your experiences with this issue. I cannot afford $125.00 just to have nails trimmed." Another person asked us. S. C: "Mommy said with another dog she had, also a Peke, would not let anyone clip her nails so the vet gave a very short acting sedative injection and cut the nails while under that. This kind of sedative was inexpensive. Is it possible to ask about an oral sedative?"
A lot of us have similar if not quite that dramatic a problem with our dogs and their nails.  Most dogs do not like having their claws trimmed. It has been suggested to start trimming nails in young dogs so that they get used to the process. Some dogs will happily sit in your lap or on a table while you trim their claws but many require some form of restraint.

But for many of us who take in older rescued dogs we need other ideas.  Here is a collection of ideas that might help you if you like me keep coming across Bostons who are not going to cooperate in this event at all.

One method to restrain the dog is to place her/him on a table. Stand on the side of the table opposite to the claws you are trimming. Drape your arms and upper body over the dog. When trimming the front claws, keep your left forearm over the neck to keep the dog from lifting its head. Hold the paw in your left hand and hold the trimmer in your right hand. If the dog tries to stand, lean your upper body over his/her shoulders to prevent him/her from rising. 

If your dog is too wiggly, try laying him/her on his/her side.   Use your right arm and upper body to keep the dog laying on his/her side. Hold the trimmer in your right hand. Use your left arm to keep the head on the table and use the left hand to hold the paw.

There are several styles of nail trimmers, including a guillotine type and a scissors type. The guillotine type is the easiest to use in dogs.

The scissors-type is used to trim a toenail that is so long that it is curling in a circle. Long claws can grow into the toe-pad. This most often happens to dew claws, the claw on the inner side of the paw. Dew claws do not touch the ground so they are not worn down as the dog walks. 

The dew claw is attached to the leg by loose skin. The dew claw can usually be bent away from the leg so that you can fit a guillotine type trimmer over the tip of the dew claw. The claws on the rear feet are often shorter and require less frequent trimming than those on the front feet.

Unlike cats, dogs do not have retractile claws. The color of the nail is determined by the color of the surrounding skin and hair. This dog has black claws on the brown paw and a mixture of white and black claws on the white paw.Always remember to trim the dew claws that are located on the inner surface of the paw.

Light colored claws are easier to cut than dark claws as the blood vessels and nerves that supply the claw, called the quick, are easier to see. Cut the claw to within approximately 2 millimeters of the quick.

If you cut into the quick, the claw will bleed and the dog will experience pain. 

You cannot see the quick on dark colored claws, making them more difficult to trim without cutting into the quick.Cut dark colored claws in several small cuts to reduce the chance of cutting into the quick.

As you cut the nail deeper, you will see a homogeneous gray to pink oval (3) starting to appear at the top of the cut surface of the nail. Stop cutting the nail at this point as additional cutting will cut into the quick.

The sharper the trimmer, the cleaner the cut. The cutting blade on guillotine-style cutters can be replaced when it is no longer sharp.

You can file the end of the nail to smooth the cut surface. If the toenail is cut too short, you can use a styptic pencil containing silver nitrate to stop blood flow, although many animals object to the styptic pencil as much, or more, than toenail cutting. The black end of the stick is held to the bleeding nail and gently rotated until bleeding stops.

Even without any treatment the nail should stop bleeding in about 5 minutes or less.

 Toenail length must be checked frequently. Most dogs need to have their nails shortened regularly by use of either a nail cutter or a nail grinder, as they do not get worn off sufficiently by ground contact. Old dogs need especially frequent nail care. If your dog has dewclaws (5th toe), these toenails will definitely have to be shortened regularly as they do not wear down at all.

SOURCE : The Pet Health Topics Web site is a free service provided by the College of Veterinary Medicine at Washington State University.

Please share your ideas and experiences on how to handle fearful dog nail clipping.. Thank you

I had not noticed anything wrong when I let Nancy Bell out.  However, when Nancy Bell, came in she seemed to have a limp, with a real swollen foot.  Great,  Now what had she done? I checked for wounds, broken toenail, and a broken toe. I didn't find wounds or anything broken. But she sure had something bothering her. So out came my Dog First Aid kit, and out of precaution, and habit, I gently washed off her paw in soap and water, and treated Nancy Bell with an antibiotic cream.

There are many things that can cause your dog to act differently, which may indicate something is bothering her. Swollen paws are a common problem for dogs. Although the condition is not usually dangerous, depending on the cause of the problem, it can be very uncomfortable and even highly painful as paws are very sensitive. Since this was the first time I had noticed anything wrong, and there was not any immediate indication of what was causing her discomfort, I was stumped.  Time to call her vet. (One of the few times that something like this happened during their hours of operation.)

Unable to reach the vet, he was with another dog... I asked that he call me back when he could.  By the time he returned the call, I had plenty of time to observe Nancy Bell more closely, and her walking around, and checked her paw several times.

There were several things her vet asked about her swollen paw.

"Check the paw for objects caught between the pads/toes."  No I could not find anything.

"Check for insect stings or puncture wounds (though often hard to pinpoint)." I had to search around to find it. That is not something I normally use with the dogs. Dada! I did find it, tucked under some other seldom used items in my junk drawer.  Not that using the magnifying glass helped, but I did look again at the swollen paw, but could not find anything.

"If you can’t see anything trapped in the paw, check the dog’s leg to ensure no constricting material is present (which can easily cause swelling)." Not sure what he meant my that, but I did take a look and saw nothing to explain the swelling or a limp.

"Soaking the paw in an Epsom salt solution is often of benefit, regardless of the cause. Ten minutes in comfortably hot water (in a tub or basin) with Epsom salts dissolved within is typically an excellent short-term solution for swelling."  That I found very interesting.  Luckily I thought that I had some. (One of my first items I keep in the house for human use.)  I noted that this might be something to add to my Pet First Aid kit. Nancy Bell's vet explained "Since dogs walk on their paws all day, it is quite possible that she may have stepped in some irritant that is causing the problem."

From previous experince I knew that any sign of limping, favoring a leg, or hobbling must be investigated. Attention to the top and underside of the paws for swelling and pain is fundamental to an assessment of any kind of lameness.

Swollen paws are often caused by a foreign object getting trapped between the pads/toes of the dog’s foot. Insect or spider bites, puncture wounds, broken toes, fractured claws, and constant licking/chewing, (as with allergies or other source of chronic irritation) are other common causes.

If you can see an obvious lesion, the swelling does not quickly disappear, or the dog continues to favor the paw, call your vet for further advice. Veterinary attention in these cases is almost always in order.

Other possible causes and ways you may be able to relieve the symptoms.

Check your dog’s paws and pads for burns when you get home after exercising, especially after running on overgrown ground, jagged terrain, or hot asphalt. This is often a problem in the summer.¹

If you do discover why your dog's foot has swollen up, and it is because of an insect bite or an allergic reaction, your vet may advise that you can give two to three 25 mg capsules of Benedryl. Be aware that this may make her drowsy or hyper.

If your dogs paw is swollen because of an infection another option may be to soak the paw in a dilute of anti-bacterial soap and warm water solution, two to three times daily for 10 minutes, then drying it well, will help her.

In older dogs there can be other common problems to consider. Sometimes, the swelling is simply a matter similiar to humans, sitting or lying in one position too long.  Congestive heart failure, may cause or worsen swelling. Chronic liver or kidney failure can also cause the problem, as can thyroid disease. Obviously, it is important to rule out these more serious health concerns if your dog has chronically swollen feet or paws.
If your dog has swollen paws, the cause might be obvious. She may have stepped on a thorn, burned her pads walking on hot pavement, or have a dripping sore from a spider bite. It usually is not easy to figure out, though, so take a deep breath and ask yourself a few questions before deciding what you need to do.

 Your skills in observation and a few questions may help unravel the mystery.

These are some of the questions my vet ask me.

How many feet are involved?

1. If only one foot is involved, you are most likely dealing with a trauma, a foreign body (like a thorn in the paw), or maybe a spider bite. Lift the sore paw up and check all the nails before running your fingers over the skin and taking a good look between the pads. Is there a growth present between the toes? If the leg is okay and only one toe is swollen, feel it and see if it is tender. Your dog may have a fractured toe, a torn nail, or thorn stuck in her foot.

 2. If the front feet are swollen, and it is because your dog has been licking them excessively, it may be due to allergies. Are her ears also swollen and red? How about her belly? Is her skin raw in other areas from constant scratching?

3. If all of the feet are swollen, check the pads and see if they are damaged from hot pavement. If they are crusty but not painful, she may have a genetic foot-pad disease, lupus, or even an infection.

If the dog is also coughing, it may be due to heart disease. At this point your dog MUST be taken to the veterinarian.

Home natural treatments for swollen feet

If your dog has stepped on a sharp object or wounded his paw, just wash it out and clean the wound.

(You have, of course, have a canine first aid kit.)
For a swollen foot of unknown cause, one of the best treatments is to soak the foot in Epsom salts (about 2 tablespoons in a liter of water). That does not mean it is the easiest treatment. Many dogs will not sit still and allow you to soak their feet, but at least try and do so for at least 15 minutes.

If the paw has a yeasty smell, especially when the dog has been licking on it, she may have already contracted a yeast infection secondary to her allergies. The best treatment is to soak the foot in dilute (1/2 strength) apple cider vinegar. Allow it to air dry for best effect.

Apple cider vinegar may also be effective in reducing itchy skin secondary to allergies, and you will not have to resort to treating your dog with antihistamines.

If the dog is also scratching at her ears and digging at her skin, as well as chewing on her feet, and the apple cider vinegar is not effective, you can provide some temporary relief by giving her about 1mg/pound of Benadryl (diphenhydramine). This does not always work, and even if it does provide only temporary relief, you should get her in to see her vet because of the allergies as soon as you can.
If the swelling is in the foot pads, and they are very rough and scaly, it may help to soften them up with a warm water soak. Some vets recommend moistening the pads with vaseline but the dogs usually just lick it off before it does much good.
If your dog does not respond to soaking have him seen as soon as possible by his regular veterinarian. Some diseases (like lupus) will require a lot more testing.  Look at your dog every day so that you are aware what is normal.²

Sources:

 ¹petmd.com

 ²DrMark1961

 

Do you remember the board game Mouse Trap? I bet many of you do. I wonder if it would be as much fun to play today as it was as a kid... Well that might have been fun as a kid, but trapping mice today is no fun at all. I hate it. I feel so guilty at plotting to harm any living thing.

BUT when you know what harm they cause it is easier to remove them. Unfortunately mice in the house, isn't something you should leave to sort out by itself as these pests can breed a lot and where there's one there will end up being a colony.

This is the time of the year where field mice, find our houses, they're coming inside for food and a warm place to live.

I imagine that you had similar understandings about these critters. I assumed that mice were cheese lovers. I discovered the foods most favored by the house mouse are cereals, biscuits and chocolate. When in the house, mice will eat almost anything not sealed in an air-tight container. Yes what attracts mice is food. Mice are masters at finding any scrap of food in and around your home, but their favorites are not limited to: uncollected rubbish and litter, food for pets and birds that has been left out and not eaten, fruits and berries that have fallen to the ground, untended compost piles, and any discarded food.

If they enter into the home, wild mice may carry parasites and diseases that are harmful to humans and animals, including: Salmonella and Listeria. Another significant problem is the structural damage mice can cause from their gnawing and burrowing activities. This ranges from minor holes in walls/doors/furniture/cupboards to structural collapse, flooding, electrical faults and fire (due to gnawing through cables). Other things to be aware of is that: Mice are capable of reproducing from four weeks old and have an average litter size of 9-12 young. The average life expectancy of a house mouse is 9-12 months.

Something that I learned recently that I had never read before is from a John Hopkins study: "Mouse allergen appears to be more common in lower-income homes, but certainly is not limited to them. The researchers noted that 50 percent of homes with household incomes above $60,000 also contained mouse allergens."¹

Remember never handle mouse droppings as they could contain disease organisms. Always wear disposable gloves and wash your hands thoroughly.

 So without a doubt there is no good reason to have them in a house. But there are a few complications about removing them and these are very serious.

Most of us are averse to physically removing them in mouse traps. Dead or alive, we shiver at the thought of being near them.  There are two basic types: kill or capture alive. There is a humane trap that tilts with the weight of the mouse, using a bait like peanut butter. The mice get right into the trap and get caught like they should. But then you have to carry the live mouse outside to release.  Or the original mouse trap style, now has several versions and then there's the new selection of glue traps.

 There are more dangers to consider. Mouse pest control, using poisons can be an effective way of dealing with mouse infestations, but it does have its drawbacks. This is true particularly in domestic properties, where the presence of children and pets can conflict with poisons. You also have no control over where the poisoned mouse will eventually die, and this can lead to unpleasant odor, whilst the rodent slowly decomposes. The problem with poison is that once the mouse dies, predators will eat the poisoned mice and die. Cats and dogs have also been known to eat poisoned mice. So finding and proper disposing of dead mice is still necessary.

Another item you should be aware of when dealing with poison; baits used to kill mice and rats are mostly grain based. Not only does this attract rodents, but also it attracts dogs and cats. There are several different types of rodenticides. These can cause seizures, internal bleeding or kidney failure. Always make sure these items are placed in areas that pets (or children) cannot access.

Have you ever had this happen? What did you do? If you find that you have some kind of mice or rat evidence you will either have to lay traps yourself in the kitchen or call in a professional pest controller to sort the pest problem out for you.

 SO HOW TO KEEP THE MICE OUT OF THE HOUSE IN THE FIRST PLACE?

SUGGESTIONS FROM READERS

Peppermint Oil Did the Trick?

I live in an apartment and have found that there are two ways that are really helpful and fragrant as well. The first is to use natural mint oil (not mint extract). I get peppermint oil from the health food store and sprinkle it around my apartment (try not to put down too much because the aroma can be overwhelming). Or try Downy fabric softener sheets. For some reason, Herman (yes, we named our furry friend) was not to fond of these smells, but we enjoyed them.

Some Like It Hot in the Car… but Mice Don't

Mice hate cayenne pepper. Sprinkle the pepper generously throughout the car, within the engine compartment, in the glove compartment, under the seats, etc. After verifying that the mouse has left, just vacuum the pepper out and replace it with air freshener.  Joseph

The Luck of the Irish

Place several bars of open Irish Spring soap throughout the van. Mice and rats cannot stand the smell. A friend has more than 20 cars on his property in various stages of restoration, and this is the method that he uses. Hanging them in empty orange bags might keep the bars from sliding all over the car, as well.
Maureen in MN

Ultrasonic Pest Control

I have to say I am very encouraged by the number of people who don't want to kill mice just because they've wandered into human territory. Having lived with a white rat as a pet, I am very uncomfortable with the idea of poisoning these little creatures. It seems unnecessarily cruel, especially when the fine print on the poison label suggests it may take days for the animals to die.
That said, I didn't have any luck with the peppermint/spearmint oil from the natural food store, and I watched early one morning while my cat slept and the mouse ran by. That was funny, but still the mouse was getting into the trash. So I bought an ultrasonic pest control plug-in unit and so far it seems to be working. The mint made the house smell good but the cute lil' furry guy stuck his head out of the stove one morning right around daybreak so I guess he's not repelled by it. Jules W., Baltimore MD³

  WHAT TO DO IF YOU SUSPECT YOUR DOG MAY HAVE EATEN POISON?

Betsy Aust.... "We did have this happen with one of the more toxic varieties of rodent bait. it was a bright blue colored bait. I turned and saw my Boston’s nose in the tray, called poison control who informed me to take my dog to the vet NOW. Long story short, Indy had only sniffed the tray, not begun to eat yet. I threw all the trays away."
Your veterinarian will test the time it takes for your pet’s blood to clot to determine the severity of the poisoning. If you have a sample of the suspected poison, you should take it with you to your vet’s office. Samples of your dog’s stool and/or vomit may also be helpful. The antidote to anticoagulant poisoning is vitamin K. Vitamin K1 is the form of vitamin K that’s used for therapeutic purposes. It’s a natural form of vitamin K found in plants and is absorbed nutritionally. The less expensive vitamin K3 is not an acceptable antidote and should not be used.

Source  

¹ hopkinsmedicine.org 

² healthypets.mercola.com
³ The Dollar Stretcher, Inc

and readers....