One of the often asked questions that come up for someone with a new puppy is.  "Do you have any crate training pointers to make this part of crate training a puppy less stressful?  We know that when done correctly this is a happy experience."  First, we suggest that it may be helpful to explain that even humans want a little privacy and most enjoy a den of their own. We call them bedrooms, dens, man-rooms, craft rooms, media rooms, garages. But whatever we call them they are places for relaxing, taking time for ourselves, reading, watching the game, tinkering on the auto, resting, working with our hobbies. Rooms that give us humans a sense of comfort and safety.One of the often asked questions that come up for someone with a new puppy is.  "Do you have any crate training pointers to make this part of crate training a puppy less stressful?  We know that when done correctly this is a happy experience."  First, we suggest that it may be helpful to explain that even humans want a little privacy and most enjoy a den of their own. We call them bedrooms, dens, man-rooms, craft rooms, media rooms, garages. But whatever we call them they are places for relaxing, taking time for ourselves, reading, watching the game, tinkering on the auto, resting, working with our hobbies. Rooms that give us humans a sense of comfort and safety.

Crate training is a big favor you can do for your new dog. It is his safe haven from the world. It is his bedroom. From his crate he gets used to new sights, sounds, and people without feeling pressured to react. A crate relieves him of all that responsibility and of the opportunity to destroy the house. Their bedroom is where a dog will want to go when they are feeling overwhelmed by all of the noise and activity of their family. Many of our Bostons enjoy corners of a favorite chair under a blanket, and of course in our beds under the covers. So, there is nothing unusual for a Boston wanting a quiet safe room of their own. And that is what a crate should be. 

Nothing is more important than starting a young Boston's training experience on the right paw. There is, of course, many points of view on crating, and we understand that. However, we feel that it is so important that every dog is crate trained when young, even if they seldom are required to be crated. We want our dogs to be able to be, if not happy, then at least not terrified when they are crated. Consider where they will be when they need to be boarded, when they visit the vet over night, or when they travel. Because life is so full of the unexpected, we highly suggest this should just be part of their training.

ake a potty break first.
Make sure Sam has been outside to 'do his business' before you crate him, even for short periods. This way when he starts fussing right away you know he doesn't have an urgent need to 'go' and cuts down on the chances he'll eliminate in the crate, which defeats the purpose of crate training as an aid to housebreaking. When you think Sam is ready to spend some time with the door closed, start with very short periods and work up. Here are some more rules of crate training and a couple of pointers to make this part of crate training a puppy a bit less stressful for you both:

Put his favorite toy in with him.
It's a good idea to have a special toy for Sam to play with only when he's in his crate. Make sure it is something he really likes and is safe (no loose parts etc.). It will stave off boredom and help him forget he's not outside running around. If you have an old blanket or something similar like an old unwashed t-shirt that you do not mind getting ruined (it's possible it'll get peed on, pooped on or chewed beyond recognition), you could put that in the crate also. Sam will feel happier and be reassured if he can 'smell' you right next to him.

Do not shut him in and then leave the room.
Young puppies want to be with their people at all times. If you disappear from sight he will be scared, and you do not want him to make those kinds of associations with his crate.

Ignore initial 'fussing'.
Almost all puppies will fuss and cry the first few times they are confined to their crates. Remember, they want to be right next to you at all times. If you take little Sam out as soon he starts whining, We can guarantee he'll whine even louder and longer next time. Anyone who has raised children will know all about this phenomenon! Stay close by but ignore the racket and do not make eye contact.
There is one caveat here. Occasionally you will find a puppy that is particularly highly-strung and nervous who may suffer from severe separation anxiety when put in his crate.
If your puppy appears 'hysterical' (whining, barking, scratching, throwing himself around, has a bowel movement or is panting heavily) it's best to let him out and consult your veterinarian or an experienced dog trainer for advice on how best to handle that. It may be that he has a tendency towards anxious behavior, such as separation anxiety.
However, do not be fooled too easily. Sam may act like a crazy dog for a few minutes,  but then settle down to the occasional whine. If he is generally not an anxious, highly nervous dog, he's unlikely to develop raging anxiety issues because of his crate.

Freedom!
Wait for quiet before letting him out. Whether your puppy is in his crate for 5 minutes or 30, never open the door and let him out while he's crying and complaining. Wait for a lull first, or he will think he is getting out because he is making such a fuss.
A comfortable dog crate can be the dog's private room and the owner's best friend. Appropriate use of a crate is a great aid to housebreaking, prevention of chewing and other destructive behavior, and a source of security to a dog who might otherwise suffer separation anxiety when left home alone; with some comfortable padding on the floor suits Boston's well.

A Blessing for foster homes.

Many foster homes crate-train most rescue dogs as soon as they enter the house, initially crating them (i.e. closing the dog into the crate) at night, feeding them in the crate, and crating them when they are left home alone. Once the dog has adjusted well to being a house dog, the crate is simply made available with door left open for dog to use at will. Many make frequent use of it for a private nap. Dogs love small, dark, enclosed places to be used as a "den", i.e. a private sleeping place. To a dog, a crate is a cherished private space, not a jail. A similar result may be achieved by "dog proofing" (clearing out dangerous or destructible items) one room of the house, so the dog may be confined there when necessary. A dog proof room is not as powerfully relaxing as a crate, but it is often preferable to giving the dog free run of the house.

Alone and restless, how could you leave me!
If your new dog will be left alone for several hours every day, start crate training now, even if you are just in the next room or in the house while he is out in the back yard. He needs to learn he has to spend time without you. A dog that gets constant attention and then is suddenly left alone for eight hours may bark, chew, or develop other behavior problems due to separation anxiety. When your dog is demanding attention, restless or feeling need, and you're busy, there are things you can do. Just because your dog is demanding attention, does not mean that he is always going to get it. Remember: You are the Alpha dog. You can put the dog in the kennel/crate.

Crate training method: 
If they decide to act up while in the crate, say not a word... instead use a crate cover or item that you wear and place it over his crate. That way the room darkens for him and he has an owner's scent from the cover to console him. Now when he goes in his cage, tell him it is bedtime... he will learn to curl up on his pillow before you even get the door closed for the night.

What size should the crate be?

Do not crate your dog in an undersized crate!

So what size crate do you need?

We have a chart that will help you with selecting the correct size.

Introducing the crate:
When you're crate training a puppy it makes the whole process a bit easier if you let little Sam get used to the crate, and feel comfortable around it, before he has to spend much time actually inside the crate.
Something worth mentioning here is that you should never use the crate as punishment. Sam needs to think of his crate as a safe, happy place where he gets the chance to chew on his very favorite toys! Putting him in his crate as a punishment or when you are angry with him will undo all the hard work you invested in the first place.
Open access
When you begin crate training a puppy, leave the crate door open and throw some tasty treats inside, all the way to the back. Puppy curiosity will get the better of your little fur ball eventually and he will venture inside to claim them.
Feed him inside
Give Sam his meals inside the crate (with the door open). This way he learns to associate one of his favorite things (food!) with his crate. If he seems scared at first try feeding him right outside the crate door a couple of times then try it inside again.

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Written by Donna

                I felt like I was paddling up stream in a fast moving river, determined to keep me from my   goal.   With my mind still spinning, dizzy with the rules to this word game.

This is what  happened when I went diving into the muddy stream of dog food terms... Be ready for a wild ride. 

Do not get me wrong, I am all for companies, even international companies growing, making lots of money, creating jobs, discovering new products that we find useful, and helping us with what we are doing; like trying to find a safe dog food. But we need to understand, people are in business for one thing, to make money or they would be a non-profit (even then there are some that make you wonder their true motives).  There are other secondary motives, such as job satisfaction, helping others, benefiting society, etc. But without profit there is no point in being in business.

You can no longer trust, you have to learn, read, and make a decision... Sorry. But anytime you decide (Who helped you to decide? What commercial? Pretty pictures? ) to buy anything, you are being influenced by a marketing ploy.

Everything is a word game.

Rules? What rules?

1. Ingredient lists can be manipulated in various ways to make a product look more attractive than it really is.

2. If a particular brand is sold in bags of different sizes, the smaller the size, the higher the price per pound.

3. Pet food manufacturers only change the color and texture of dog food to make it look better to YOU, not your dog.

4. What your dog cares about is the way the food smells and tastes (pet food manufacturers also put unhealthy stuff in pet food to trick the dogs too).

5.  If the label says "manufactured for..." or "distributed by...," the food was manufactured by an outside manufacturer, but the name on the label still designates the responsible party.

6. The majority of pet owners will be swayed by marketing gimmicks and eye-catching claims because watching cute commercials requires less effort than understanding the information on the label.

7.  To recognize whether a food even includes any "real meat", you need to know the ingredient definitions.

 8. "Natural Organic" dog food looks grey and bland because it does not have potentially harmful artificial colors.

 9. If a name only includes the word "flavor" or "flavored", no specific percentage is required at all, but a product must contain an amount sufficient to be able to be detected.

10. Many pet foods are labeled as "premium," and some now are "super premium" and even "ultra premium." Other products are touted as "gourmet" items. Products labeled as premium or gourmet are not required to contain any different or higher quality ingredients, nor are they held up to any higher nutritional standards than are any other complete and balanced products.

11. The Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) is a voluntary membership association of local, state and federal agencies and has no regulatory power.  They only provide guidelines for companies and the states to follow if desired, so you are right to be skeptical about any brand until you have fully researched it for yourself.

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Written by Donna

Sometimes, we feed food that is good for both our pets and humans too. 

There is a great debate going on between those that recommend a 100% all commercial-brand food; those that use commercial based dog food supplemented with "human quality" foods; then there are those that just as vigorously swear to an all raw diet. Who is right? Where do you stand? How can you decide what is right when even the Vets are in disagreement over this subject!

Advantages in making your own dog food.

There doesn't seem to be a simple answer.  Of course, there are advantages to making your own dog food, one being you control what goes into your dog’s food. But, you will have to add your own nutrients, of which there are many available. But who has the time? It is said that homemade dog food is a lot cheaper than store bought commercial brands. The fresh food you buy at the market for yourself is the food you should give your pet, too.

NO, feed nothing but dog food and nothing else

If you decide to follow the Kibble only method, the drawback with these kinds of dog foods is that most of the manufacturers do not even consider giving your dog the proper nutrition that he needs, and most of them are also laden with preservatives, artificial food coloring, and other types of harsh chemicals that can have ill effects on your dog. Unfortunately, there are way too many unhealthy commercial dog food brands.¹  As we discovered in an earlier article, the labels on commercial dog foods cannot be totally trusted, thanks to the WORD GAMES they are playing. There is a method to calculating a dogs daily caloric needs, but first you need to convert the dogs weight to kilograms, using the formula. 2.2 pounds = 1 kilogram.  Daily calories = Body Weight (kg) X 30 + 70, or 329 calories per day. Now you must check the label on your commercial dog food, and see how many calories are in each cup, and feed accordingly. Of course, this metabolic formula is theoretical only, and will vary according to each dog’s metabolism. Well, they have to be good at these games, look what they spend on marketing.  AND LINK TO LAST ARTICLE

aw food is the only way to feed!

This is raising a lot of eyebrows in some quarters of the pet worlds, especially in the commercial sectors.

A raw food diet for dogs is believed to be closer to what canines should be eating. They believe that eating processed or cooked foods is unnatural for canines. "Raw meat, fruits and vegetables is the best dog food, since there are no chemicals involved in making them ready for the market. But there are still some dangers in feeding your dog with raw meat. For one there is a chance that your dog will get food borne illnesses because of salmonella and E. coli, bacteria commonly found in uncooked meat and vegetables. This can be avoided simply by following common kitchen and personal cleaning. But not to be totally left out of this growing movement, there are now high quality, commercially prepared, raw dog food brands available today which eliminates preparation. They are usually frozen/freeze dried or dehydrated raw dog foods."¹

 
Why is all this so important?   

Most Bostons will overeat and become fat if you allow it. Obesity is the single most common serious medical problem in todays dogs -- and even more so in humans in our "developed" (industrialized) nations. Obesity is caused by too much food and too little exercise. Obesity will drastically decrease your dog's health and quality of life and may even contribute to a premature death !  Do NOT "free feed”! Put down the proper amount and leave it for 10-15 minutes, then remove anything uneaten. Weigh the dog at the vet's (most have a walk-on scale and are glad to let clients use it) occasionally and make note of the results. 

If you feel you must give treats.

Most dogs really enjoy some fruits and vegetables, offer them to your dog. Most dogs will quickly learn to love broccoli and carrots, both of which are considered health promoting. You can shred broccoli and carrots in the food processor to increase the digestibility and decrease the rare risk of a dog gulping a piece in a way that could cause choking. Most dogs learn to love tomatoes. Other favorites include pieces of banana, strawberries, blueberries, blackberries, figs, pieces of apricot or nectarine (remove the stones first!) and apples. All of these are healthy treats. Don't suddenly give a lot of them to a dog or you might see some changes in stool consistency. Don't be alarmed when you see various colors or seeds or other remnants in the stool.Make sure that you account for the calories in treats when

feeding your dog his meals—these should be subtracted from his total caloric allowance for the day.

How can we tell if a dog is at the right weight?
Feel his ribs: Run your hands along his sides toward the tail, feeling for his ribs. If you can find them beneath a thin layer of flesh, he is probably at the correct weight. If you can barely feel them under a layer of fat, he is likely overweight.
View him from the top and side: A visual inspection of your dog’s body is also important.  Look at his body from above. Does he have an hourglass shape, with a slight narrowing behind the ribcage? Also view the lines of his body from the side. Does his stomach tuck up behind the ribcage? If the answer to both questions is yes, he’s likely at the correct weight. If his body has no definition from above or from the side, he is probably overweight.

Cut back on meals: It’s quite possible that you’re feeding too much at mealtimes. Often the serving size on commercial dog food labels advises a larger portion than is necessary for an individual dog. Every dog is different, and every dog also metabolizes food differently. With this in mind, start out with the recommended serving size, but observe your dog carefully. If he looks like he’s gaining weight, slowly cut back on how much you’re feeding; if he appears to be losing weight, feed slightly more until he’s at the recommended weight for his breed. Then simply maintain the portion size that works for your dog.
Feed him on a schedule: Dogs who are “free-fed”—given access to their food bowls all day—are more likely to be overweight than those who eat on a regular schedule.
Feed your dog two to three times a day. Ask your vet for advice on amount, but in general a dog needs 35 calories per pound per day to stay at her ideal weight. Avoid weight management foods as they tend to be high in carbs and low in protein.

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Written by Donna